CHECK GAUGES LIGHT KEEPS COMING ON AND BATTERY INDICATOR GOES TO ZERO. HAD IT LOOKED AT AND MECHANIC SAID IT WAS JUST CORROSION ON BATTERY TERMINAL. FIXED PROBLEM FOR ABOUT 2 MONTHS. STARTED AGAIN 2 WEEKS AGO, LIGHTS WENT DIM AND WHEN I TURNED OR STOPPED IT DIED. STARTED IT AGAIN AND SAME PROBLEM. HAD IT TOWED TO MECHANIC AND THEY PUT IN A NEW BATTERY. GUESS WHAT A WEEK LATER IT WOULDN'T START! IT WAS RUNNING AND THEN JUST DIED. NOW THEY ARE TELLING ME IT MIGHT BE AND ELECTRICAL PROBLEM BECAUSE THE BATTERY STILL HAS JUICE, BUT IT WON'T START. HAD IT TOWED AGAIN TODAY WAITING TO SEE HOW MUCH THIS IS GOING TO COST ME. HAS ANYONE HAD THIS PROBLEM? I SURE COULD USE SOME ADVICE.

Symptoms were at first a seatbelt warning beeping, immediately followed by the ABS warning light and the Seatbelt light going on. As I slowed vehicle to investigate a possible cause, my tachometer gauge went to zero, soon followed by my speed gauge. I pulled off to the side of the road and before I could shut the engine down all warning lights and gauges returned to normal. The engine never faltered or showed any sign of a problem during all this.

Back on the road, another 10 or 15 minutes passed and it happened again, with the same sequence of events. The driving conditions were about the same as before, perhaps a slightly higher speed. But this time it was more severe. Most all of my warning lights including the Check Engine light and all gauges went to zero, including the LED mileage display, which then read “no bus”. At this point I was really worried that the engine would fail, but surprisingly, it still showed no sign of any problems whatsoever. I turned off the engine and let it cool for a minute or more and when I turned the engine back on all was again normal.

My dashboard warning lights and gages on my 2000 Dodge Durango R/T 4X4 randomly fail. The ABS warning light, the Seatbelt light and buzzer and the Check engine light would all come on, and the Tachometer and Speedometer gages would drop to zero while driving. Pulling off the road and letting the engine idle seemed to resolve this screwy electrical problem. The dealer diagnosed the problem as a fault in the PCM system. This cost me about $1200... and guess what? A few weeks later it did it again! The dealer now says that I caused the new problem because I self-installed some new driving lights that effected the electrical system!