This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
The parking brake keeps failing under normal circumstances. I had the vehicle inspected at around 32,000 miles for a sticking rear brake. It was determined that the right rear caliper was defective. After jumping through a few hoops, it was repaired. Now at 39,000 miles it's doing the same thing again, in addition the left rear caliper started sticking. On my 3 mile drive home from work right after the symptoms of extended parking brake handle travel for proper engagement started. I pull in my driveway and my rear rotors are glowing. There was no smel of hot brake components at all. It is imperative that the parking brake works on a standard transmission car, to prevent roll sways. Leaving it in gear is absolutely not enough.
Brakes gave out and pedal became hard while in motion going up on george dieter, el paso Texas. Unable to stop until I pressed the brake harder. While pushing the pedal making a air noise and really stiff.
Driving car normally. I parked in a parking lot and went into a store. When I came out to start the car it would not start. Charging indicator light and check engine light came on. Auto zone was in the plaza so I had the guy come out and do a diagnostic. Codes were P0123, P2122, P2127, P0222, U0401. When the guy went back into the store the car started. When I parked again 10 minutes later the check engine and charge light disappeared. Car ran fine for one day. About 33 hours after that incident I parked the car at a park for lunch from work. Took a walk and when I returned car never came on. Dash was flickering, all lights illuminated, mileage was flashing, gauges were flickering, car would not turn over. Acted as if battery was dead. Had to walk back to work and have car towed by aaa after work. Car has been sitting for 4 days and will not turn on. New messages came up: Check electric braking system, check air bags, service tire pressure system and check anti lock brakes system. The tire light is on me because a sensor in the passenger tire broke when I got a flat hitting a curb while parking. I replaced the tire but not the sensor. Also now the uconnect and radio not coming on and battery light comes on, and when I made attempt to start a message came up stating engine warming up"?" that was weird. This all happened all of a sudden within a two day span. Now I am stuck paying for a car I cant drive that is going crazy electronically.
The problem with the vehicle is that the clutch pedal goes straight to the floor and stays there, the only way to get it to the up position is to reach down or use your foot. The master cylinder of the brake system was below the minimum line. No brake warning light or any other warning/caution. The clutch went to the floor. The incident happened I was on a 7 lane city street during rush hour traffic I was driving and everything was normal. I was the first vehicle in line when I try to start going the clutch felt like it was slipping in first gear which is highly unusual for my vehicle because first gear has always been very touchy.. shift to second gear in the clutch once again was slipping and the engine reved the vehicle did not accelerate properly. I was able to get it to go and I made it to the next traffic light. I was the second car from the intersection. When the light turned green I released the clutch and the gear engaged imeadiatly with the gear in first, the vehicle lurched forward and kept doing that about three times until the vehicle stalled out. Pushing in the clutch pedal did nothing it's stay stuck to the floor. In the mirror I see that the vehicle behind me almost ran into me and almost caused a huge pile up behind me because of the hesitation of my vehicle I was not able to move the vehicle out of the lane without help from a fellow citizen that was dangerous in itself. Once I got the vehicle to a safe place pushing it I checked under the hood and I see that the brake fluid reservoir on the master cylinder was empty. I check the fluids in my vehicle at least twice a week. Where did all that fluid go? I have been without my vehicle for a week or two now due to trying to figure out what to do because the car has 40, 000 miles on it so its out of warranty.
Right rear caliper began to stay engaged as I was driving, after it cooled it stopped until I drove again, it became so bad that it burned my rotor and cooked all of the grease in the sleeves. Replaced the rotor, pads and regreased the sleeves, I still have the same problem.
- Ashaway, RI, USA
Search CarComplaints.com for these popular complaint phrases...
Major safety concern - should be recalled!!! brakes quit working properly; sounds like air when push down on brakes....will hardly slow down and brake pedal try's to push back up while holding it down. Recall this Dodge - you should be ashamed.
I was on my way to work and when I came to a stop sign and tried to stop but munch brakes didn't want to work. It sounded like air was coming out when I pushed brake pedal and then the pedal was hard to push down and tried to come back up while I was holding it down. I'm at a mechanics and he thinks it the brake booster. He thought there was a recall on it so I called the Dodge place in dothan al and they said there was no recall for my car. I could have been in an accident and had to drive slow all the way here. Now I have no way to go to work or home cause my brakes are not working correctly. Now I'm waiting to have I to fixed. Dodge said it would be around $450 or more to fix
I was trying to pull out of an parking space that was angled up and while doing that I noticed that the brakes did not work. It had been parked for 30 minutes. All I could hear when pressing on the brakes was air. It would not work unless putting extreme pressure on it.
The emergency brake in the vehicle does not work at all, what-so-ever. My vehicle has a manual transmission so without a working emergency brake, I cannot park the car on any sort incline. I've seen on numerous online forums that many Dodge Dart owners have been experiencing issues with their emergency brakes as well, in particular, Dodge Dart vehicles with manual transmissions. Based on feedback I've read on other forums, it seems that the manufacturer didn't properly install the cable that the emergency brake is attached too. I had one instance where my vehicle almost rolled into oncoming traffic due to the parking brake not working properly. I had another instance where I had passengers in the vehicle in a crowded shopping center with pedestrians passing through the parking lot where the vehicle started rolling back. I barely have over 45,000 miles and I've owned cars with manual transmissions since I started driving over 20 years ago. This is the first instance I've ever had any issues with the emergency break, and I've driven cars that were much older than the one I own now. It seems this is a major flaw in the 2015 Dodge Dart that Chrysler fails to acknowledge. I hope that the NHTSA can take action upon Chrysler to avoid any potential future injuries due to the fact that Chrysler didn't properly attach the cables in the emergency/parking brakes for the 2015 manual Dodge Dart models.
When braking, brakes feels hard and require significantly more force to activate. A hissing sound is occurring and brake force will often not engage until halfway into the petal. The issue has been resolved by my mechanic, but according to him and some research I've done online, this seems exactly like an issue with the Dodge Dart 2013 recall for the same part. As taken from Dodge's site: The brake booster on your vehicle may experience engine oil migration from the vacuum pump, through the vacuum supply tube, and into the brake booster. Prolonged brake booster diaphragm exposure to engine oil could cause the diaphragm to fail. This could lead to a loss of brake booster assist and/or an air leaking sound. A loss of brake booster assist could require the driver to apply additional brake pedal force to stop the vehicle. The lack of brake booster assist could change the braking characteristics of the vehicle and cause a crash without warning. I'm putting in this complaint with the hope to avoid others from accidents and ultimately to hope to get a refund from the service and parts I had to get into my current car. I recognize that the dot is not responsible for a refund but would be instrumental in having Dodge issue a recall if enough other 2015 Dodge Dart owners complain about this as well. Thank you
My brakes stopped working properly, I took my car to have it looked at and it is the power booster and I was informed that this is the same issue that the 2013 & 2014 had recalls for so why not the 2015, my children were in the car with me. It was hard to stop my car and a scary situation
Takata recall the breaks went out while driving and now when I push the breakes it leaks air and R very hard to push. And while coming to a stop the car jerks can cause a bad accident car will take a longer time to stop but alot of pressure needs to be kept so car will stay at a complete stop
I have driven my 2015 Dodge Dart without issue till 2/15/17. It died in the middle of my wife driving the interstate on I40. The following day it died and my father in law had to jump the vehicle off to get it going. Today, (2/17/17), I decided to drive the car to work because my commute is shorter and much less dangerous. I pulled out of my drive way and drove to the end of the road till I got to the main street in our hometown, and it died thankfully before I got on that street. The car just completely stops. Steering wheel locks. All electronics in vehicle stop. Braking is slightly delayed. I took it to the Dodge dealership in town and they said to check the oil. We did and had them change it. My main concern is highway driving where people drive 60+ mph and not being able to steer into the shoulder.
The contact owns a 2015 Dodge Dart. While driving approximately 25 mph, the brake pedal was applied and failed to respond without warning. The brake pedal was stiff and required excessive force in order to stop the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the brake booster system was faulty. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 60,000.
While driving, there was a snap and a loss of power brakes. According to the repair report from Dodge, brake fluid from the master cylinder leaked into the power booster causing loss of power brakes. This car is a little over a year old and just out of the warrenty at 37,000 miles and since we bought it with 20,000 miles on it, Dodge would not help with the repair cost. The 2013 and 2014 Dodge Darts were recalled for oli leaking into the power booster, but this appears to be a failed master cylinder. I've had experience with master cylinders over the years and always got more than a year out of a brand new master cylinder. Maybe I got the only fluke Dodge Dart master cylinder problem, or maybe Dodge has been putting sub-standard brake parts on these cars for years. I saved the old parts just in case. I thought it might be worth looking into. We narrowly avoided a rear-end accident, and so did the Dodge service guy when we brought it in. I appreciate your input on this. Thank you
The contact owns a 2015 Dodge Dart. While driving approximately 10-15 mph, the brakes failed to engage when the brake pedal was depressed. The front driver side of the contact's vehicle collided with the rear of a truck. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The air bags did not deploy. A police report was not filed and there were no injuries. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 5,645.
I've had my car for over a year now and I have 9850 miles on my vehicle. Around 1am after coming back home from work going 60mph, I heard a loud clunk in my steering wheel and I decided to not pay attention to it because I thought it was the road. I tried to switch lanes, when suddenly I couldn't move my steering wheel at all. Luckily there was no one behind me so I started to slow down as soon as I hit about 13mph my steering wheel became unstuck and I was able to move again. The next day I took it to hunter Dodge in lancaster ca and when I brought it in they told me they couldn't find anything wrong with the vehicle. About 3 days later, I was driving about 60mph again and my car started to drift into the dirt while I was going back home. I tried re-centering my car to the center, but my steering wheel locked once more and I started going into the dirt. I slammed on my brakes and luckily I was able to stop before I hit a tree. I took it back a 2nd time and asked them to look at it again and they had it for a couple of days and they still didn't find anything wrong with it. Luckily the times it has happened I was alone in the car. Inam.glad to say that my family and my soon to be wife wasn't in that car. I cannot drive my car to la because of the fear that my steering wheel may lock up on me while on the freeway. Please help.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Warsaw, IN, USA