This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
My radio screen went bad and it-??s killing my battery when the car is off but the screen still works. Also it won-??t play music on my speakers due to the screen messing. The screen is also affecting my speakers and everything obviously and I seen there was a recall on the cars radios
Massive battery drain issue, resulting in dead battery, causing the need to replace the battery yearly. Lane keep does not function at all. Does not provide any assistance in staying in the lane. Lane departure warning only has a dash indicator and no further alert to inform operator of possible lane departure
This problem first appeared on 2/1/23. After driving the vehicle and i park, when i place the car shifter in park and press the push to start button to turn off the car, the car shuts off but the start button stays in ACC mode and will not go to OFF mode option no matter how many times you press it. The vehicle will go from ACC then to Start only. The warning lights display on the dash saying, Service Shifter, Vehicle not in park and traction light appears then shows Service Airbag. The vehicle is in park but the push button will not allow it to go into OFF mode. it will stay on ACC. The only two options are ACC and Start. The vehicle believes the car is not in park but it is. No matter what you do it will not go into OFF mode. The only way to temporarily put it in OFF is to disconnect the battery. When you start the car again, it will turn on but when it's time to turn the vehicle off it will repeat the same problem and stay in ACC and will not allow it to be pushed into OFF mode This has not been inspected by the manufacturer, dealer or insurance company yet. In my research of the problem other Dodge Charges have the same issue. Safety issue is not being able to turn the car off completely. unknown of other safety risks
I was driving using my paddle shifters mounted to the steering wheel and I pressed the + shifter to upshift, but instead of going up to third gear the vehicle downshifted to first. Upon searching the internet for a fix for this issue, I have discovered that it is very common among other Chrysler vehicles, dating back to at least 2015 and still present in current 2019 vehicles, yet Chrysler has not issued a solution. This is obviously a very significant issue as this could cause damage to the cars engine, and could even cause accidents or speeding tickets as the car could accelerate suddenly when the driver is expecting to upshift. I have noticed this issue several times, it was certainly not a one-off and it is definitely not limited to my vehicle, as it is circulating around the internet as a common Chrysler problem. I have also experienced it in Chargers and challengers I have driven (I am a valet driver) there are several videos up on the internet documenting the issue.
Water leaking on driver foot. Noticed water leaking from above foot well. So now the driver side floorboard is wet. Also noticed under the rear seat drivers side is also soaked. So now bottom of drivers side rear seat is wet. No idea how water is coming inside. No luck searching on internet for answers. Other people having problem but no answers on how to fix. Very frustrating.
- Hebron, KY, USA
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Fuse 26 in secondary pdc in truck for power to tcm (transmission) module blown. Vehicle would not shut off completely due to shifter physically in park, but software indicating still in drive. Could not open truck with either fob button or truck button on dash to check fuses or disconnect battery. No exterior key hole to open trunk manually. This is a safety issue if car catches fire.
This is the second year I've owned my 2015 Charger. I noticed the first year after buying the car in the summer that the heat only blew out the passenger side. When I took the car to the dealership to get it looked at I was told it would cost $650 to replace the door actuator. Approx 2 days later while I was waiting on the part I tried the heat and it came on. Needless to say, I cancelled the repair. Now, here as the cold has come upon us again, once again, no heat on drivers side. I have read several issues regarding Dodge Chargers of the same year experiencing the same problems. This issue is something that needs to be inspected by the maker to identify the issue. Being that when it's cold out the defroster isn't capable of keeping the windshield clear therefore could cause visability issues while driving.
The contact owns a 2015 Dodge Charger. While driving over a bump in the road, both turn signals erroneously activated. Also, when the turn signals were activated and the steering wheel was turned back to the straight position, the turn signals would remain activated and failed to turn off. Furthermore, the high beam headlights no longer operated. The failures were not diagnosed or repaired. The local dealer was not notified. The manufacturer was informed of the failures. The failure mileage was unknown.
The contact owns a 2015 Dodge Charger. The contact stated that the instrument panel was faulty and the gauges were inoperable. The contact also stated that she lost control of the vehicle and felt that the speed could not be controlled. The vehicle felt as if it would run off of the road. In addition, the check engine, traction control, and ABS indicators illuminated. The dealer and manufacturer were not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was 34,016.
Attempted to start car and nothing happened when start was pushed. Lights and radio worked. Message on panel said press on brake and push start but still nothing happened. The lights on the gear shift began flashing red, the wipers began operation even though they were off. The key fobs would no longer work. I had to have the vehicle towed to a dealer, which stranded me 4 hours from home in 0 degree weather. The dealer could not get to it for 3 days and when they did- it started with no problem and no code errors came up. The dealership actually told me that they think it was due to the extreme cold temperatures. I guess Dodge can only be driven in a warm climate. Now it did it again last night. At least I was only 30 mins from home. I went back this morning and it started right up again but the engine light is on. This time it was 65 degrees. Something is terribly wrong with this vehicle. It seems from searching the internet that a lot of Chargers have this issue but there is no recall on my car to have it repaired.
The driver side lights doesn't stay on. The bulb and fuse was replaced. This is a known issue with Chrysler as to they settled a class action suite with Jeep in 2015. The tipm is bad on the Charger.
The car just lost power all of a sudden. The vehicle is up to date on maintenance. The mechanix explained that everything mechanically is great, the battery, engine, alternator, etc. There is a malfunctioned module within the car's computer. The car was stationary when I discovered it had no power.
While inside the vehicle, occupants smell a very strong odor of gasoline. Checked fuel pumps under back seat and there was a puddle of fuel on top of the driver side fuel pump. Upon further inspection found the fuel to be coming out of the electrical connector for the driver side fuel pump. All seals were still good. The connectors were burnt out and the plastic was melted. This has happened on several vehicles in our fleet. (approx 20). The smell is consistent once the connector is melted.
Driving normal condition, when the gas starting counting down every second starting at 60 miles and then the engine shut off. Able to put gas in and starting driving again and same incident happened.
The contact owns a 2015 Dodge Charger. While driving approximately 35 mph, a "park the vehicle" message suddenly displayed. After parking and turning the engine off, smoke was seen coming from the rear trunk. Upon inspection, it was discovered that a wire leading to the fuse box was in flames. The contact was able to extinguish the flames, but the vehicle could not be restarted. The vehicle was towed to the contact's residence. The failure was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer and local dealer were not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 107,000.
Takata recall. The seatbelt, once buckled, will not unfasten unless you repeatedly yank at the belt itself. There was repeated clicking in the engine and I could not exceed over 45mph. When the heat is turned on in the car the cool A/C blows on the drivers side of the car and when I tried to adjust the temperature on driver side of car I am unable to do that.
I was driving my vehicle around 65-70 mph on the freeway when I went to step on my break pedal the vehicle did not slow down when I went to change lanes due to this my gs pedal would not go faster after either. A indicator light appeared in my cluster but I was unable to read it due to my panic of loosing my breaks and gas pedal. Late that night I took it to huntington beach Dodge and Jeep service and service advisor bob said that there was a system code that indicated loss signal to breaks and gas pedals. The repair order indicated that the break and gas pedal was not calibrated properly causing the issue. This is great concern to being that it is a safety matter that can cause a accident or that can result in great bodily injury or death. I had tow friends in the car with me at the time too.
Upon arriving home after an 800 mile trip, (in the evening around 10:30 pm) when shifting into reverse to back into driveway, I experienced a complete ECU controller failure and everything went black. And engine died. After a few seconds it appears the computer rebooted itself and the dash came back up and the car restarted. It appears there is a real-time program bug in the car and the firmware needs to be investigated. Had this happened on the road, it would have cause a serious crash. I was then able to back into the driveway. No error code was posted! I believe that the realtime software is experiencing frame overruns and we know that causes runaway conditions like in the Toyota Camry. I believe the NHTSA should review every car firmware before release to insure spare time requirements are met and runaway conditions can not exist. (yes, I used to develop real time software for control systems)
There is rust on the steering knuckle near the U ball joint near the front suspension coils next to the front tires. Also the navigation and uconnect are messing up.
- Adelanto, CA, USA
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A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Patterson, CA, USA