CarComplaints.com Notes: The 2007 Dodge Caliber has all kinds of suspension problems at relatively low mileage: typically 40-50,000 miles.
The most commonly reported problems are with ball joints & control arms going bad. Tie rods & leaking struts are also reported failing in the same mileage range.
Unfortunately all the suspension problems means some owners only find out after they notice their tires are ruined.
We've given the 2007 Caliber our worst rating because these problems happen at such low mileage, & it involves a wide range of apparently defective parts. With most other cars, major suspension work is pretty rare under 50,000 miles.
10.0
really awful
Crashes / Fires:
1 / 4
Injuries / Deaths:
1 / 0
Average Mileage:
85,838 miles
About These NHTSA Complaints:
This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
I have had constant problems with this car. My key abruptly stopped working last year and I have to pay $500 because the dealership said the computer could no longer recognized my key so I had to get a new one. My gear shaft began to jam and I had to pay $200 to get a chip replaced because it was shot. Now my totally incorporated power module was shot today when I took it to get checked at the dealership today. The cost is estimated to be $1150. I am sick and tired of all the problems this car is presenting in my life.
The lights behind the dash went out without warning. There is no way to see speed in the dark. There are many existing cases online. Dodge immediately recognized the issue when called and was not concerned about safety issue.
At approx 6pm on 11/11 while attempting to enter the interstate my vehicle began to jerk violently. The check engine light began to blink and the vehicle would not exceed 35 mph. I took the vehicle to a local autozone to have it diagnostic. Multiple misfires on all cylinders. I had the spark plugs replaced that weekend because my dealers repair shop was full. Problem still occurred so I left the car at the dealer for them to check the engine. The camshaft sensor needs to be replaced. This is not covered under the 50,000 miles engine and power train warranty because it is not a moving part. I just had to replace both ball joints and upper and lower control arms on the car in June. It is currently at 42,600 miles. The alignment is off again so I'm suspecting the ball joints are going bad again.
Was driving 35-40 mph when etc light came on and car was jolting forward and losing power back and forth. Belletire wouldn't touch it cuz they said it seemed to them like a recall issue. He said that either the ECU needed reset or the drive by wire system was malfunctioning. This is also after my control arms were bad at 48000 mile. Both of these problems I have had have thousands of complaints online for them and are notorious for these problems.
- Royal Oak, MI, USA
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The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated that while driving approximately 40 to 50 mph, all of the lights on the instrumental panel illuminated and the engine began to lose power before there was an increase in the engine rpms to 8,000. The vehicle then began to suddenly accelerate and when the brakes were engaged, the smart braking system activated. As a result, the vehicle fish tailed. The contact lost control of the vehicle, but was able to maneuver to the side of the road. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure, but offered no assistance because the vehicle was not included in the recall associated with NHTSA campaign id number 10V234000 (vehicle speed control: Accelerator pedal) and the warranty expired. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileages were 88,000. The consumer stated around 30,000 he began to experience major electrical problem. The lights, car alarm, power windows and power locks were all affected. The radio, horn and led panels were having minor issues. The vehicle was still under warranty, so therefore the dealer fixed the vehicle in a timely fashion. The vehicle performed as designed up until 50,000 miles when the problems returned. However, only the power locks and car alarm were affected. The vehicle was no longer warranty and since they were minor, the consumer learned to just live with. However, on August 4, 2011 as the consumer was driving, the vehicle suddenly went haywire. The instrument panel was blinking on and off, the dome lights were flashing, the radio shut off and the brakes stopped functioning. The vehicle the accelerated out of control and the consumer lost control of the vehicle. The ABS light illuminated and the vehicle started braking itself to compensate for the acceleration. The vehicle then fish tailed as the consumer was trying to make a left turn. Updated 09/29/11.
The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. The contact was driving 30 mph when all of the lights on the instrument panel illuminated and the vehicle suddenly accelerated. The contact also mentioned that after the ABS lamp illuminated, the system engaged which caused him to temporarily lose control of the vehicle. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure who did not offer any assistance since the vehicle was out of warranty. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 88,000.
The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. While driving approximately 60 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. In addition, the electronic throttle control warning light was illuminated on the instrument panel and the vehicle would decelerate independently. The vehicle was inspected by an independent mechanic who advised that the alternator needed to be replaced. The dealer was contacted and the part was ordered. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 50,000.
Last week I started noticing a loud rattle in the engine of my Caliber. I took it to the dealer and they said it was the belt tensioner. I got it replaced and it got rid of the squeaking noise but not the rattle. I did research online and discovered that many people were having alternator problems and showed similar symptoms as mine did. I contacted the dealer and said that it would be $680 to replace. I decided to go with another mechanic because it was cheaper. This mechanic replaced it and showed me the old part, it was completely burnt. He said that there should be no way that a car with 60,000 miles on it should have an alternator in this condition. He also mention that it could have caught on fire. Why is there not a recall on this?
The turn signal stayed on, everything electric shut off, then when I put the car in park and took out my key, the car was still running!! this happened twice and no one can figure out what could possibly be wrong. Then my check engine light went on. The diagnostic test read P0708. I was told I cannot simply fix this sensor, that I would need a whole new transmission. My car is 4 years old and has 53,000 miles on it! how could I need a new transmission, who can afford a new transmission!? the car has been extremely well taken car of, normal oil changes, inspections, I just bought 2 new front tires! this is unbelievable.
Almost a year ago my 2007 Dodge Caliber SXT started jerking back and forth and felt like it was going to die. The electronic throttle body light came on but as soon as I slowed down, the light went off. I called my local dealership and told them about the problem. They stated that if the light in the dashboard wasn't staying on they could not get a code from the car but I could bring it in and they could try it anyways for $105. I took it someone I know and they read the code off of it, 2120 P2110, I called the dealership back and told them the code. They told me that they would have to run their own tests and charge me to see what was happening but if there was no light than they couldn't do anything. I asked them if this is dangerous to drive then because I have a baby in the car. They said no, as long as I can pull over fast enough to restart the car. Last Friday, the car started to do it again and I was on the highway with my 2 yr old in the car. My car started loosing power and the car behind me almost hit me so I turned around and got my fiance's car. When I tried to take it to the dealership the next morning the car would not go above 2000 rpms and so I drive 10 mph all the way through the city (I got up to 30 mph down hills). I think that all of this is dangerous and having dealerships telling people that they cannot fix the problem is crazy! the dealership now wants to replace my entire throttle body and I am wondering if a replacement would have been avoided if they would have looked at the car last year!
My 2007 Dodge Caliber stalls out while I'm driving. It has 50,000 miles on the speedometer and I purchased it used last Sept 2009. The problem occurred about 5 times before I decided to take it to a local mechanic to have a diagnostic test run. The dashboard warning signal would come on signifying "electronic throttle control". this issue has come up in different driving conditions but usually in the first 15mins of driving. Usually I am at a stop and then when I attempt to accelerate, the car dies. It starts right back up but, because I lose power, I'm forced to pull over in traffic unexpectedly. This is a definite safety concern for me. The vehicle will be at the Dodge dealership tomorrow so that their mechanics can look it over. I have been in touch with Chrysler at 800-853-1403 and have been told this issue has not been reported as a problem/trend.
The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. While driving approximately 35 mph, both front axles failed. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer and repaired under warranty. The contact also experienced problems with the radio and the problem was repaired by the dealer. The contact was driving 25 mph when the vehicle suddenly downshifted. The contact believed the failure within recall 10V234000 (vehicle speed control: Accelerator pedal) was the cause of the problem. The vehicle had not been repaired. The VIN was unavailable. The failure mileage was approximately 27,000 and the current mileage was 36,400.
The totally integrated power module on left side of the engine compartment is not working. So, the brake lights & horn do not work. However, the individual component was tested the brake lights & horn work individually. I don't know how long I have been driving like this but one of my co workers told me my brake lights were out because he almost hit me in the rear. This part is not covered under warranty because it is not part of the engine. It will cost apprx. $820 for repair. Which I cannot afford at this time. I am reporting this because it is a safety issue driving without brake lights or a horn. Someone can get seriously hurt or possibly die from driving like this.
I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber. I can remove the key from the ignition without putting the car in "park". this allows the car to roll when it is not on. This is a safety concern, as I have on multiple occasions exited the car, at which time it begins to roll away. There is currently a recall for certain 2010 Chrysler products (NHTSA campaign #10V200000). I believe this should be extended to include 2007, if not the years in between as well.
The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. While driving approximate 30 mph the vehicle stalled and the transmission light illuminated. She drove onto the emergency lane for 20 minutes and the vehicle began to function normally. The dealer replaced the computer chip. The failure happened a week later and was taken back to dealer who stated that they did not know how to fix the failure. She then took the vehicle to another dealer who replaced the transmission. Two weeks later the vehicle stalled again. The contact stated the dealership advised her that they would call her when special technicians came from Chrysler. The dealer never notified her. The failure mileage was 42,000 and the current mileage was 43,000.
I bought a 2007 Dodge Caliber in April 08, it had 12,00 miles on it. It now has 70,000 miles. It is making a loud clicking noise in the front end. I can feel it in the steering wheel and on the floor board whenever I make a turn or go over a bump. I do not have a warranty, and the dealer wants $75 just to look at the car. Also, while driving with my small child, my turn signals, high beam headlights, and wipers just stopped working. I have looked at hundreds of other complaints about these same issues, but I do not know of any recalls for these same issues. This is an extreme safety issue while driving. I am not sure how I will be able to pay for these problems with the car. Wondering how Dodge can get away with these same issues happening with thousands of Calibers and them not be held liable to fix it at their cost? will never buy a Dodge again! thank you, and I hope to see recalls very soon for these issues!
Positive battery post on original manufacturer battery came loose from body and released battery acid into engine compartment. Battery acid ate through protective coating on wires to main electrical and caused car to stall and malfunction.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Raleigh, NC, USA