This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
When the electronic stability control malfunction indicator light comes on, my car starts shaking violently, not responding as quickly to pressing gas pedal, jerking, slow acceleration, bogging down when I reach 50 and the feeling of my brakes applying themselves my room gauge sometimes rocks back and forth before and after the gear shift...a weird smell and heat coming from under the car even tho it's not reading a higher temp... I've changed the cps twice and the code will not clear... P0340...this happens all the time but it's random and happens even while I'm driving...or when the car is running for a few minutes in park...random...while the episode is happening sometimes I hear this fast paced tapping and "movement" behind my dash & steering wheel...I've tried everything I can to solve this problem and now I find out my car has recalls...my car dealership never informed me it was on a recall list...please help before something bad happens as I'm driving...I feel like this issue could potentially cause my car to shut down or something could blow up...I just don't know what else to do and I don't want to accidentally hurt someone or myself if I potentially lose control of the vehicle or the brakes completely stop me without me applying them & I wreck or stall going down the highway or interstate... very concerned and worried about what to do next...when this isn't happening to the car it behaves & drives perfect...it seems possessed or is having a seizure
The vehicle was slowing down while driving on the freeway. Etc, ESC, and check engine lights went on. The dome light in the car was flickering and the lights in the dashboard went dark and the speedometer was not visible. This happened in broad daylight.
My airbags did not go off when I hit the car in oncoming traffic. My frame was bent and both cars were totaled. I've sustained many injuries that are unknown of treatment completion
A couple years after I got my car it would shut down when I would come to stop signs and no mechanics could tell me why. No lights ever came on. It had shut down on the freeway before and let the power slowly die down until the car turned off. That time the car actually had a light when I tried turning it back on. I essentially have had to replace my transmission and engine within a year. The car would overheat at times but no lights would go off so I just could let the car cool down and let the overheating stop. Fast forward to replacing the engine and transmission and my car is now idling high even without the gas being touched. On the freeway it will go to as high as 4000rpms now and it feels like the car is going to stop working again. Also the door blend actuators and other actuators have been making noise for about 4 years. My air line has no leaks and is cold but the air that comes out of my vents is almost warm feeling.
In January 2020 my 2013 Dodge Avenger began to have issues that resulted in it stranding me at various times, I had the car towed and assesses it was determined that the battery was bad was the battery was replaced ( last replaced 2 years prior) the car was returned to me and almost 1 week later I was again stranded with a car that would not start and so I had it towed and assessed and this time it was the alternator, I had it repaired and returned to me the vehicle seemed fine for 2 weeks when suddenly the windshield wipers stopped working or would work intermittenly, the ac or heater would work intermittenly, the car horn and alarm stopped working and would go off randomly while driving, the vehicle would stall if the heater was on while driving and the alarm would go off if it stalled, finally I called Dodge and they told me to bring it in, they would find out what was wrong with it I told them from what I had read it seemd the issue was the tipm, 3 days later I get a call that it is the tipm and that they will also need to remove the alarm and that the repair would cost over $1900 and when the car is back it will no longer have an alarm though I bought the vehicle with an alarm on the show floor it would be additional cost to have a new alarm installed. I have read that this issue is a known issue and that it is very dangerous and Dodge continues to ignore how dangerous this is. The times the vehicle stalled I was driving, and could have been in an accident had I not reacted quickly and recognized what was happening.
- Hemet, CA, USA
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The horn on my vehicle continues to beeps while driving, the radio no longer turns on and the car shuts off while driving without any warning almost causing accidents. I was told the power module needs to be replaced and there are many complaints online from other customers regarding the same issue with this make/model vehicle.
Stability control light coming on while driving and when parked. Check engine light. Needed to replace the brake switch. Airbag light on. Diagnostic shows there is a short in airbag wiring and the airbag will not deploy if needed. This light comes on after starting car and stays on constantly.
When heat is on, the passenger side blows cold (I live in wi so, when I say cold, I mean cold) air from every blowing port on the passenger side... occurs at all times, whether stationary or in motion. Have tried a few things reccomended on multiple other pages by people who are experiencing the same exact issue. No help. The driver side vents do blow warm air but, not close to as hot as it should be. This has been occurring since right around 118,000 miles. I start my car 20 minutes before I leave my house at 5am to bring my young children to daycare and be to work by 6. when getting in after being started for 20 min... barely any difference in temp which, is frustrating when you drive with your babies 35 minutes in the cold cold cold along with several deer and a windshield that won't defrost completely. Have purchased the extended warranty from dealer and, somehow (what a shock) there is no help for me as 'the issues being described sound like it was brought on by you, the vehicle owner or, enviorment factors'... it hurts knowing you are a loyal and honest human who works hard every day to barely make ends meet and then... to have your character slandered by the (several thousand dollars extra) lifetime warranty that the salesman so confidently swore by on the day of purchase. Owner misuse? there are hundreds and hundreds of people having the exact same issues who own the exact same car... sorry but, safe to say that isn't coincidental. I have children and groceries and gas to get to work and school and life... it may sound ridiculous to some but, the $900-$1600 they are saying it would cost... doesn't come easily for just everyone. I'm just hoping that some people will choose to do the right thing and, stand behind the very words that lead them to where they are currently in life. Faith in these humans will hopefully bring appropriate solutions.
Heater blows air driver side but cold air on passenger side when heat is on. Heater core blockage. Also have a clicking noise from the actuator behind the glove compartment
There is no electrical power going to the passenger side head light on my vehicle. The interior lights flash on and off while the vehicle is in motion.
My vehicle stalled, started shaking, shut down and lost power while driving. The following three warning lights came on; 1) malfunction indicator light (mil); 2) electronic throttle control (etc); and 3) electronic stability control (ESC). I have noticed that the car seems to stall when I put it in drive and take off is slow. It takes me several blocks to just reach 30 mph. The car also feels as if it is lunging but resumes a slow pace. Take off is extremely slow when I stop for traffic lights. The engine seems to lose pressure. The car will rev and accelerate on its own even with the brake pedal being pressed. My car started sputtering in traffic, the car revved up like I was pressing on the gas. Then yesterday I experienced immediate loss of power in the vehicle & the inability to increase speed, almost causing me to be involved in an accident. My vehicle slowed to approximately 10 - 20 mph. The manufacturer has not addressed this faulty problem and needs to address immediately!!!!! my life matters and so does everyone else's life and those of their family!!!! what is really upsetting to me is that this is a known problem that has been reported repeatedly by others who have had this situation!!! my life matters and so does everyone else's life and those of their family!!!!
The following three warning lights have started to come on intermittently; 1) malfunction indicator light (mil); 2) electronic throttle control (etc); and 3) electronic stability control (ESC). The malfunction and ESC lights were the first warning lights to come on. The lights have activated while I am driving on dry payment without any hazardous conditions present. The etc warning light now comes on too. I have noticed that the car seems to stall when I put it in drive. Take off is slow. It takes me several blocks of driving to reach 30 mph. The car will also feel as if it lunged but resume a slow pace. Take off is extremely slow when I stop for traffic lights. The engine seems to be losing pressure. I have maintained the recommended oil change schedule. The aforementioned conditions represents a safety hazard. I found recall # N52 online which appears to be for engine stall and the loss of engine pressure.
I've had a few issues recently with my 2013 Dodge Avenger over the past year. When my change oil warning indicator comes on, some of my warning indicator lights randomly come on as well. The first few times my airbag indicator light would come on and stay on. When I took my car for the oil change I asked them check the airbags but there was nothing indicating a problem and once the oil was changed the light would go off and stay off. The next time it was the ABS & the tire pressure monitoring system; I got the oil changed they checked, nothing was found again. Before this last time, my oil warning came on along with the emergency brake light, as if the brake was up and it stayed on even when I drove, again no problems were found. Last night (5/09/18) change oil warning indicator came on. This morning (5/10/18) I started my car (automatic car starter) went out to my car and my tire pressure monitoring system warning light and my electronic throttle control warning light were lit. I tried to turn the car off and back on, however the car wouldn't shut off right away. When I restarted my car the light indicators were gone. But while driving to work if I were to stop at a light or stop sign my car would idle and feel as though it was about to shut down so I had to put it in park while stopped. Also when I had to accelerate from the stop if I just drove like normal and took my foot of the brake and push the gas the RPM's would go to 7 then drop and my car would shake. I had to take my foot off the brake carefully then drift, and then press gently on the gas until I was able to pick up speed. This is my only vehicle in which I drive my children, please help!!
Takata recall vehicle stalling and shaking, shutting down and loosing power while driving. Very unsafe and concerning, as the vehicle will shut off randomly in traffic in the road. Vehicle horn honks randomly, unable to shut off. Interior lights flashing randomly.
The vehicle's heater blows cold air on the passenger side and warm air from the drivers side simultaneously. All vents ( foot area, face area, and windshield area) are affected.
It doesn't matter if the car is moving or if it is stationary, there is only warm air on the drivers side and there is cold air blowing out on the passenger side. Only the drivers half of my windshield will defrost. I have replaced the actuator twice and it does not help. The clicking under the dashboard not only returns, but the heat (or lack-there-of) is not affected. It still only blows warm air on the drivers side of the car. The defrost only works on the drivers side of the car. I understand there are many complaints of this happening to Avengers across the board, no matter the model type. All due it looks like to casting and sand issues. After flushing the car multiple times, there has been no change. Replaced the heater core/thermostat ($850) and the heat worked for about a week then started blowing cold air again. I took it back and they replaced the heater control panel. ($275). Cold air again......... there needs to be a recall of something to fix this issue. Nothing is working and it's only costing a whole bunch of money.
Etc lights coming on car not safe to drive, part was replaced 6 months ago and returned again. Taking to dealer but I am trying to get rid of this car for this issue. I have not found a solution to this issue yet. While driving car started sputtering in traffic, I had to pull over and try again to make it home. Once I got there the car revs up like I am pressing on the gas so I am getting it towed to dealer.
I purchased my Dodge Avenger brand new in 2013. After two years of having my car, my car started to not want to turn on. I would continue to try and sometimes it would work and not other times. I went to get the battery checked and was told it was fine. I then went to a dealership and they said I probably needed to get a fuel injector done so I did this as well and my car still time to time will not start. 2nd my left side body panel one day just popped out of place and when I would go to shut my door it would make a clicking sound from me trying to shut it. I was not in a wreck, there is no explanation as to why my panel popped out of place. 3. my car is now not blowing heat out (and its winter right now) I only noticed this once it became cold out and needed to use it. First couple times I tried running the heat it would do so but only on the driver side. The passenger side was blowing out cold air. I had a auto shop look into this and they said they didn't see anything even wrong with any of it. But that they would need to do a diagnostic beforehand which is going to cost me $195 then I can go from there.. I keep seeing where a lot of Avengers are having the same problems with there heating system.. could this be all from a manufacturing problem with the heater core??
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Gainesville, GA, USA