This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Took car to hilltop Chrysler ON12/3/18for recall.was told that the part had to be ordered, it was on back order.called back a few days later and was told it was still on backorder.ray had no sense of urgency because this is a serious recall that involves the engine shutting off while driving.I then contacted you guys and spoke with a young lady who was dynamic in helping me out.she called the dealership and found that ray made a mistake and ordered the wrong part.the recall was finally done on the 12/18/18, (gus) but a couple days later I started to noticed that the driver side door lock wouldn't respond to the key fob and neither did my lift gate.the keyfob is supposed to be programmed to work with my car and it's not communicating properly. I took it to the michael stead hilltop dealership this morning 1/3/19 to have them take a look and was told that I had to pay a diagnostic fee by the service advisor.he stated that they get people coming back after a recall saying this and that is broken and want it repaired. He also brought the"master tech"out to explain to us.the tech stated that he knows they did nothing wrong because the recall had nothing to do with the doors, it's connected to the tire pressure light.he said the recall was to fix it where the key wouldn't fall out of the ignition.(not what the recall was about)he also stated that even after programming the key fob to work with the car, it would be a coincidence that the driver lock and gate lift doesn't work and we would still have to pay for the repair.he started to talk about the recall was to do with BCM he implied that, we did something wrong and something to do with time frame(don't know what a BCM is) prior to the recall we had no key fob and had to manually open with a key and lock the doors by pushing the button down.all doors including the gate worked and with buttons that automatically opens&close.
Driving down the road and the car shuts off, check engine light comes on, esp light comes on. My car shuts down on both street and highway and in motion.
Chrysler Town and country 2010 the wireless ignition node is problem R03/NHTSA 14V-373 but I call Chrysler said my car is not incluse recall, but 2 day ago my car suddlely engine shot down on the highway.
While driving under 40 miles an hour the car will stale with no warning at all. I've taken it to the dealer and there is no error code. I have read reviews of a possible bad egr valve but that this may not be the problem. Took it to another mechanic and he thinks it could have something to do with the ignition switch slipping. Not sure the issue but is not safe to drive as is. The car looses power steering and power brakes when it stalls. Had the catalytic converters replaced last year because the dealer said that was the issue but problem has still persisted over the past year but not all the time so it's been hard to detect. This problem never happens when the car is stationary or driving over 40 mph. It's always while city driving under 40.
- Almont, MI, USA
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While driving at low speed, rpms between 1000 and 1500 the vehicle stutters and at times shuts off. We have to put in park and restart the vehicle. It has been happening for awhile now but it is now more frequent. The date below is when it last happened. I would say it has been 4 times in the last month.
I recently started having problems with the ac in my Town & Country. It started making a hissing noise then a day or two later it started blowing warm air. I took it in just thinking that the freon just needed to be recharged. They did that and it worked for about a 1 wk before going out again. So then I took it back in and they tested all the lines with the dye to see if they could find a leak anywhere- no leak. They recharged a second time and it worked for about 2 weeks. Then back to hot. I then took it to a different place and they replaced the rear evaporator core, which seems to be a major common problem with these vans.. repair pal has hundreds of these same complaints
Several attempts to start. The windows make clicking noise and "gear malfunction" type noise when attempting to open or close windows. When letting go of the window button the noise "grinds". when opening the back hatch using the button, some of the other windows make the same 'grinding' type noise. This only occurs when vehicle is stationary. This has been happening for about 6 months.
When driving in town the rpms will suddenly drop to 0, the van is unable to accelerate and the power steering locks up. Sometimes the esp message pops up on the dash. I have to pull over, put the van in park, and turn the vehicle off and then back on. So far this works but it will do this multiple times in the same trip. Has happened when moving, while stopped and when turning through an intersection. I'm absolutely terrified this will happen at a critical moment and cause my children and I to get into an accident.
My van will stall without any warning while driving. It happened first going 45-50 where my starting wheel tightened up and had to stop and restart van and then again coming to stop sign no signs again and had to restart and then again it did it while driving and had to stop and start van again.
We have had continuous problems with the engine stalling while driving. Sometime the dash lights, radio, outside lights flicker before the engine quits. After pulling to the side of the road, the key will not come out of the ignition. No lights will be on when turning to acc or on position. The door locks will not operate. Nothing works. We have nothing attached to the ignition key. I have tried wiggling, pushing, pulling on the key to get it to work. Nothing! then randomly, everything comes back on and the engine will start. We have not had an accident, yet! but if these issues continue, we will. Troubleshooting doesn't do much good because it is so random.
Power sliding doors on Chrysler/Dodge vehicles are locked and there's no way (electrical or manual) to unlock and open the door. In case of and an accident would be very difficult to evacuate people from inside the vehicle if the sliding doors are locked and have no way to unlock. I've owned 2006 and 2010 Chrysler/Dodge minivans with the same problem on driver and passenger sliding doors.
Van was parked and being unloaded. Left side door begin to open. It opened about two thirds of the way, then reversed and begin to close. A box was being unloaded from behind the front seat. As the door closed it contacted my wives arms and continued to close on the arms and box. Force had to be used to get arms and box clear of door. In the process of forcing the arms clear, the door begin to click and stuck open. The safety reverse did not engage to reverse the door or work at all. The door was jammed open and would not open or close at all. Drove to the body shop to have the problem investigated and fixed. Discovered the plastic coating on the wire had peeled off and began to bind in the pulley mechanism. Both the pulley had damage between the cable races and the wire had torn coating. This combination damage rendered the safety reverse to not operate and could have caused serious injury to an individual who was not strong enough to overpower the door.
Vehicle stalls while driving constantly. It seems to be worse at slower speeds, but does happen at higher speeds. When the stall occurs, you often see the ABS light come on. The car loses power steering. You have to pull over and restart or sometimes can put it into neutral and restart while driving. There are other times car seems to surge forward for no reason. It's often difficult to start.
My 2000 Chrysler Town & Country 2010 model will not start. When I try to turn on the car one click happens and all other electrical things work and gages turn over but the car will not start. I wait 5-10 minutes and then the car starts. I have replaced starter and battery still the problem occurs. This has happened several times over the last 3 years.
On multiple occasions over the last almost 3 years we've had issues with our vehicle dying when stopped or parked. It began in December 2014. We purchased the vehicle in August 2014. While driving to Florida from Michigan our check engine light came on. Then it turned off so we figured that the bulb was loose or something and we'd get it checked when we got back from vacation. On the way back the same thing happened with the check engine light coming on, going off but then it came back on and didn't turn off. Then the vehicle starts dying when we're stopped or parked. We're obviously concerned! I had to get an oil change after driving that far anyway so I brought it in. The said that the code was for a misfiring piston and I needed to take it into the shop right away. So I immediately drive it over to the dealership shop. They have it for a few days and tell me that nothing is wrong, the vehicle just needs a tune up and new wires, even though it doesn't even have 90K miles on it. They were going to charge us $700. We had my husband's cousin do it instead because he is a mechanic and doesn't charge us for labor. The problem doesn't go away. They tell us the cam shaft sensor is bad. We replace it. Doesn't fix it. They tell us the crank sensor is bad. We replace it. And on and on our goes with us replacing things and the dealership being unable to recreate the issue. For the years we've been dealing with that and a vehicle that cannot smoothly accelerate. It is impossible to quickly get up to speed and merge onto the highest because the vehicle bucks and shakes if you try to accelerate quickly to get up to speed. Then the check engine light flashes, traction control light comes on and a bell starts to ding until we pull over, shut off the vehicle and restart it. Nobody can tell us what is wrong and when the codes are scanned it doesn't match any code that Chrysler has.
My vehicle almost daily will stall out and die while in motion on roadways. The traction control light comes on, the power steering fails and the car dies. This generally happens between 30-40 mph and often times multiple times a day. The radio and other components will remain on but I have to turn it off and pump it to get it to restart. I have seen hundreds of forums that list this as a current complaint with this year range of Town and country's.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Haverstraw, NY, USA