CarComplaints.com Notes: What the heck happened here? A year after getting our "seal of pretty good" for the 2004, Chrysler turns around and delivers this crapwagon.
How Can The Automatic Locks On 2005 Chrysler Town Country Be Fixed - Simply remove the IOD fuse for about ten seconds and replace it.
The IOD fuse is located in the fuse box which is in the engine compartment on the driver's side. The inside of the fuse box cover shows the location/names/amps of the fuses. The 20amp IOD fuse is on the lower left corner of the fuse panel when looking at the panel from the driver side. Chrysler has released a software fix for the door locks on there vans. The dealer can flash the BCM to prevent this problem from reoccurring.
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2005 Chrysler Town & Country Owner Comments (Page 1 of 2)
Door locks fail without notice leaving door unlocked. Alarm goes off every time door is opened. To temporarily fix this condition I have to pop hood, pull out IOD fuse, count to 5 & stick it back into socket. If I get that timing just right the radio settings & clock time won't be erased. Otherwise I have to reset clock time & re-scan radio stations. Problem returns randomly, Never know if it will last months or 2 days. Averages about a week or two.
Left cargo door lock is not controllable electrically with either the key FOB or driver's lock unlock switch. With the ignition off and key out and nothing on, the car draws 0.79 amps from the battery. If the car is not driven frequently, which is our case, this results in a dead battery, having to jump start the car, and eventually having to replace the battery. This is the third time with this problem.
First time removing and replacing the 20 amp IOD fuse temporarily cured the problem but subsequently had to be repeated. This went on for a couple of years until the removal & replace failed to cure the problem. We then took the vehicle in for repairs with the BCM module having to be replaced with the "New" Chrysler firmware which was supposed to cure the problem - Cost $545. That was 2 years ago, now the problem has reoccurred and removing the IOD fuse has no effect.
With all the same complaints and customers paying $400-$600 per repair this should be a recall by chrysler, which is not only repaired for good and for free but refunds all customers monies paid for this "repair" in the past.
If this isn't done IMMEDIATELY, there should be a class action suit initiated against Chrysler.
When a solution is available and it is widely understood that it can be easily fixed, I don't understand why the automakers are slow to make it a recall item and satisfy the consumers. If it was difficult or costly it is one thing, but this was a relatively easy fix, unfortunately, it is most likely not a lasting fix.
This is absolutely a known problem by Chrysler: they have a fix. The fact that they haven't stepped up and offered a recall or option to download the flash ROM/BIOS is absolutely unconscionable. When the burning question as to what drove all of our own citizens to buying Japanese and German cars, don't bother - just go on over to China and build that crap for them; that's where our buyout funding went anyway. Thanks:
I've consistently bought new American cars over my entire adult life, only to feel like used toilet paper; now I can go Honda, Subaru, Volkswagen,or Toyota with a clear conscience. Hell the used Hondas, Toyotas, and Volkswagens I have bought outlasted and outperformed the GM and Chrysler cars which I bought NEW. I'm sick of feeling ashamed over the crap we're building here in our own backyard - sorry, the crap we WERE building in our own backyard.
On an aside note, that new Tesla sure does show what we can do when we put some pride and integrity into building something as second nature to an American as Blues or Rock-n-roll. We've gasoline in our blood for pity's sake (Hoooo-yahhh!)
Who builds all the engines for the Indy 500? That stout little guy who came to the table in the early 1970s after he showed us how to really build a motorcycle. Mr. Honda. That's right. The Honda motor company builds the engines for the Indy 500.
During the life of my 6th new American Car - which was intended as "Mama's car" and the family car, I had the opportunity to buy a 9 year-old Toyota van (back before the Sienna or the Previa - which was a revelation in the mini-van market; did you ever notice how many of those damn things are still being driven? They got better than 23 MPG real world, and would smoke any American mini-van
If I was either of the "big three" American car manufacturers, I'd slither off to China with my tail (and some other more intimate anatomy) tucked between my legs, too.
Do not know when the doors will lock or unlock. Have to use the key to unlock any door while carrying groceries and then make sure to manually lock all the doors when I leave.
After 2 years of blissful service, my door locks stopped working on a cold November day after I had to replace a dead battery. I bought the car used in August 2006 and had no issues until the battery failure in November 2008.
Well, the battery died right there in the Costco fuel pumping bay after I filled that baby up. Bought the new battery and installed it right there in the CostCo parking lot.
I didn't notice until a few days later that my door locks weren't actually working. I don't remember what tipped me off. I attempted to replace the fuse. Nothing. Whenever I press the keyfob, the horn chirps, but the locks don't work. Pressing the interior door lock button doesn't work either.
So, for 4 years I drove the van without working electrical locks.
It is a complete pain in the arse to lean over the front seat to get the passenger door unlocked. EVERY TIME. And the poor passenger side sliding door is so neglected that it now works when it wants to.
I think this is a serious enough issue that Chrysler should give us all the software reboot to the BCM free.
This is the 2nd time the door locks have failed. Attempted to unhook the battery and that fix did not work.
For a brief 4 weeks, the power locks worked again after I replaced my 4 year old battery. Then, whammo, that cold December afternoon, they stopped working again.
I think static got something. I had stepped out of the car -- with the keys still in the ignition -- to take a walker out of the back. When I went to leave the car after parking it, the door locks no longer worked when they had earlier that day.
I know I should not mention that this is the Third Time my Power Locks have STOPPED WORKING. However, with 3 Grandkids and only one door that unlocks with a key is like I said in my complaint is: "a pain in the ass".
First repair a mechanic, I believed disconnected the battery, and had me replace batteries in remote keys. Second time, I personally removed every fuse from the relay box and reinstalled. How lucky was that, when it worked. Don't remember the time of each fuse being disconnected.
The THIRD TIME, I discovered www.carcomplaints.com via a Google search. and removed IOD Fuse and it worked, I will now call the dealer to see how much it will cost to Flash Software Updated.
Thanks for your support, where dealers fail miserably.
Read enough of the complaint on the same problem for T&C and Caravan. Starting happening a few months ago. did reprogramming; reset with the IOD Fuse; it works for a few days and then same problem. Now it is getting worse. Reset the IOD fuse will work a few days. Can someone tell me if spending $400 for a new BCM(body control module) will once for all fixing the electrical problem??
THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THE LOCKS HAVE STOPPED WORKING AND THE FIRST FIX COST ME 150.00, NOTHING WAS REPLACED ONLY REPROGRAMMED. THIS TIME THE DEALER SAID IT WAS THE BCM, COST TO FIX $450.00. I JUST HAD NEW BRAKES AND EQUALIZER BUSHINGS PUT IN ALONG WITH NEW TIRES. THIS VAN HAS SOME NICE FEATURES BUT I CAN'T AFFORD THEM, IT HAS BECOME A SAND HOLE THAT I THROW MONEY IN.I'M GOING TO FORD!
My doors for a while will not lock unless I do it by hand. It has been like this for a while but I just found this site to complain.... Surprised at how many ppl have same issues as my van!
So on top of all the other electrical issues I am having, I can't lock or unlock my electric doors with the remote or with the door button. All doors have to be locked manually.
This has been a recurring problem. The Chrysler Dealership can NEVER seem to find the issue. My van has been "on fire" with some sort of electrical meltdown or burn out EIGHT different times since I bought it brand new with 22 miles on it. The door locks being stuck locked is only the residual effect that seems unable to be fixed. The dealer's solution is to undo the battery's cable so that "no codes" show when a diagnostic test is run. I know of two other personal friends who own this same van model who have similar issues in my area. Chrysler claims this is not a widespread problem. I have stopped driving this vehicle and placed an emergency glass breaking hammer inside the driver's door just in case I am ever stuck inside if the thing catches fire again and the locks fail.
I've had to reset the fuse a few times now. The fuse isn't bad, as it's still working. However, I may replace it just for kicks. All you have to do is pull out the 20amp "iod" fuse, then reseat it. that's it!
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
Door locks fail without notice leaving door unlocked. Alarm goes off every time door is opened. To temporarily fix this condition I have to pop hood, pull out IOD fuse, count to 5 & stick it back into socket. If I get that timing just right the radio settings & clock time won't be erased. Otherwise I have to reset clock time & re-scan radio stations. Problem returns randomly, Never know if it will last months or 2 days. Averages about a week or two.
- Digi G., Saint Louis, MO, US