This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
purchased may 15th.and now car sits in my apartment parking lot as a roadblock for all tenants since May 27th. 2008sebring started fine.drove 2 miles roundtrip, vehicle ride was rough upon turning into residence thankfully I was not on the street in traffic when the car decided to stop, the windows were down I still have not been able to get them rolled up.lights instrument panel lights went haywire flashing, ding chime sound continuous. the backdash illuminate light has never worked. wont accept jump from cables, has power in areas under hood, charged to 12v on charger able to get code (DTC-U1403 implausible fuel level signal. Just like the recall of the wiring issue it's similar. The week this happened the tire pressure indicator in the lower left corner of Dash was lit up and the cruise control light would come on but when engaged it would not drive at the limit set only reduce is speed the stereo CD changer didn't work I thought it was just because it was old the cigarette lighter which I used for my power source the light on that device would flicker in and out showing it wasn't getting a good connection the key would get stuck in the ignition or do a continuous storage where you it would not spring back as it should you'd have to turn it off and then try to restart it the battery in the fob work just fine before all of this took place now the battery is dead in the fob as well. it won't hold a charge I want to know how it's going to get fixed and with whose money?? $95 for Diagnostic.while covering windows later that night, I was able to see a dim red light where the tire pressure indicator was lit up at the fuses are fine the battery is 6 months old but it is constantly draining I it won't stay charged I can't get it out of gear it to put it in neutral to move it anywhere. Main purpose was to get me to my doctor appointments now I can't even do that& I haven't been able to do that.. i think this recall has Revisited. its unsafe
The vehicle stalls and jerks back for up to 2 seconds. However, these two seconds can be very dangerous on a roadway as driving at high speeds it may cause an accident.
Front suspension cross-member-sub frame totally rusted out, car has 86,000 miles on it, was garage kept a lot, car is in good shape and sub frame is only thing rusted out, parts around it looks new, look at picture, this should be a recall or Chrysler should pay for it, never seen anything rust like this, very dangerous driving like this
I took the vehicle after purchase to the shop to look over and seller agreed that he would cover the cost for "sensor" issue as he stated! the car needs a camshaft and due to the age of the vehicle the mechanic stated if that part is replaced it will possibly need a transmission as well as a new engine. Therefore the repairs would exceed the value of the vehicle or not work at all and waste all that money. Car had issues starting from day 1 too.
My 2008 Chrysler Sebring has been in the shop since November 9, 2019. Defective tipm. The starter has caught fire 3 times. Vehicle stalls out and leaves you in the middle of the road. Battery has been replaced. Ignition switch is getting hot when keys are in and the key gets stuck in ignition. Tipm was replaced. Car is still not running due to dealership not knowing what new parts to try. Have also had several problems with cooling systems/fan not working properly.
I ran my VIN to search for any recalls on the vehicle I purchased last year and the description for my VIN comes up as a 2008 Chrysler 200, but my car is a 2008 Chrysler Sebring. If a VIN is a unique identification number for each car what does TL it mean that the description doesn't match my car?
Chryslers are known for their terrible transmissions, but this is our second Chrysler Sebring in this year range (same engine/trans models), both with the same issue. When shifting from or thru neutral, (eg. Reverse to drive), the transmission shifts so hard that it can lift the engine and snap a mount. This causes the car to make knocking noises when shifting (any gear), and causes the car to lurch in and out of gear, neutral, and park.
I purchased this vehicle used last November from a private seller. Since then I have had to replace the airbag clock spring, battery cables, and now I am experiencing problems with my windows and coolant temperature sensor. My passenger side window has fallen into the door several times do to a faulty track. My driver side window has completely stopped working do to a faulty button. And lastly, my coolant temperature sensor failed on me 2 months ago. I cannot drive any further than a mile without my car redlining. I checked for a leak in my hoses and seals and have found nothing. My antifreeze reservoir burns so hot it actually evaporates the antifreeze. I have gone through 6 full size bottles of antifreeze in a 2 months period. I have a noticeably high idle whenever the car starts to get the below the full line and now I have an engine ping. The overheat issue occurs whenever it decides it wants to. My dashboard display goes in and out intermittently and my windshield wipers turn on at random whenever I use my signal to make a left turn. This vehicle is full of electrical problems that I cannot afford to fix. The truth is, I purchased this vehicle with the small cut of life insurance money I got the my mother passed away. I am disabled and this is currently my only source of transportation. There needs to be some serious looking into the Chrysler Sebring from 2006 on up. I cannot be the only one experiencing this myriad of problems.
My car was parked in my driveway, as I was closing the convertible roof, I heard a popping sound two different times. Once I made sure the windows and roof closed I looked to see the back seat arm rest panels had blown away from the frame of the car. I have it at a dealership now waiting to hear there explanation that would cause this to happen.
The front, especially drivers, door window lift mechanism breaks, causing the window to retreat down, leaving the window in an open position. This has been fixed 5 times and keeps breaking. A definite design flaw.
Horn and passenger side low beam went out on my 4-cyl. 2.4L 2008 Chrysler Sebring sedan about a month ago. I replaced the bulb, which is labor intensive on this car in itself and the low beam still did not work. I tested the new bulb and it worked fine. I moved the bulb to the drivers side headlamp and it worked fine. The harness for the bulb connector carries a 12V current but still the low beam does not work. Every online search points to a faulty tipm(totally integrated power module). I can't afford a new one at $595 and that's if I replace it myself. I'm unable to find a compatible used part at salvage yards in the area and Chrysler dealer says there is currently a month long national backorder on the part and is unsure if I'll have a replacement in a month. This alone should be a red flag that there is an underlying issue at Chrysler. In the mean time I continue to search salvage yards and am looking for a way to bypass the tipm to get the headlamp working, which in itself could still leave me open to other failures on the tipm. All this said, I'm wondering if other electrical components will start to go soon as well. As it is I'm having a problem with the horn, which I believe also runs through the tipm.
Passenger window exploded in the door while touching control button for window to open to ask directions. Had to travel by myself to Mexico 300 miles away and had to drive all the way back to las vegas with no window. The driver's side window did the same exact thing last summer in 2015. Called fca customer assistance center everyday for a week now and they told me my case was being escalated to a case manager. They would not help me. All I want is for Chrysler to pay for the repair of my defective window. I called 1-800-992-1997. They call themselves fca customer assistance center. They were a waste of my time and effort. Last window on driver's side did the very same thing. I want satisfaction!!! I want the window repaired by chyrsler on them as I repaired my last window blowout. Can any one suggest some help as I really need it today and even last week? I'm afraid of driving my own car. Chyrslers should either bring their windows up to new standards (electrically) or not sell any to people who live in the desert. They are not safe!!! this car is always garaged and has low mileage as I worked close to home. What's this world coming to" who's out there to help me" chyrsler sure is not!!! only god!!!!!!!!! I stopped for directions on this last window explosion, but the other window I was driving to the hospital without stopping.
Takata recall. During the course of a year since I've purchased this car, I have experienced issues with what I believe to be power steering. Twice while coming to a stop (stop sign or light), my steering would lock along with my brakes. When I took it to a shop I was told my thermostat needed replaced. I told them to fix the issue. On April 17th while driving home from work a little after midnight this same issue occurred only while I was still driving. I was able to force my wheel to turn enough to drive up the bend I was driving around rather than the school in front of me. Finally I hit a pole and my car has been ruled as a total loss. I have many concerns in regards to what actually happened and why.
I brought my car in 2009. My lights have blinked from the start. On August 11, 2015, I drove 1 hour and 17 minutes 59.5 miles in moderate traffic. I arrived at Agency. I exited the car. About 5 minutes later, I returned to my 2008 Chrysler Sebring and entered my car. I started the car as normal applying the brakes while shifting gears and put my car in reverse with acceleration. As my car was in motion the car dangerously shut off in the middle of the busy road and I had to apply the brakes quickly while rolling and in motion. My dad and I put a diagnostic on the car and it read a code. We checked the potential problems. The only problem was the transmission fluid. We refilled the transmission fluid. On March 4, 2016, I drove 51 minutes 33.4 miles in moderate to heavy traffic. I arrived to a military location. I exited the car. About 3 minutes later, I returned to my 2008 Chrysler Sebring and entered my car. I started the car as normal applying the brakes while shifting gears and put my car in reverse with acceleration. As my car was in motion the car dangerously shut off in the middle of the busy road and I had to apply the brakes quickly while rolling and in motion. As my car was in motion the car dangerously shut off. My dad and I checked the transmission fluid and the transmission fluid seemed okay this time. The 2008 Chrysler Sebring dangerously shuts off while rolling and in motion. No light stays on during the duration of the trips to warn me of anything that may be malfunctioning. The 2008 Chrysler Sebring shuts off with no warning while in motion. After it shuts off while in motion the malfunction indicator light comes on and it goes off. I called the dealership that I had been taking my car in for service since I brought it. The Chrysler dealership has expressed uncertainty about finding the problem. I spoke with corporate with my VIN and they did not help.
I was driving down the road and I got a warning on my dashboard that said the convertible top was in operation. I was on the freeway driving 60 mph (approximately). All of the sudden the top started to open (it is a hard-top convertible) - it froze in midair because the trunk compartment was not prepared for the top to go into it and the trunk lid would not open because the car was in motion. When the top froze in the "up in the air" position, it did something to the motors. I had to have it towed to the dealership - they were able to get the top back down (manually) and then they set it so it was permanently closed until repairs could be made. Unfortunately, I do not have the money to get it repaired - about 600 dollars and I would not anyway, because it malfunctioned - it was not user error. The equipment completely failed. Is this on any type of a recall that would allow my car to be fixed and covered by the manufacturer?
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Vevay, IN, USA