This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
My vehicle now 3 times just stops on me luckily 2 of the 3 times i was going maybe 10 mph. only once i was going 35 and it just slams shut i am being told they are no active recalls however this is a problem and going to cause an accident when this happens my drive light on the dash is flashing as well as on the knob to put it in to drive. this is just one of the many problems with the vehicle the transmission constantly jerks you around. the sliding doors have a mind of their own. i am a single mom of 4 and i purchased this car almost bran new and i only have 3000 left to pay on it and i can barely drive it i dont even like going around my neighborhood in the vehicle for fear it will just stop. it has also left me stranded when everything just stopped working in the car and that turned out to be a recall that i was notified about til a few weeks after it left me and my kids on the causeway bridge. and before that alot of time my car wouldnt even start it was something with the battery for starting the vehicle. Chrysler should be sued for making this vehicle it is horrible i got it to have a reliable car for me and my kids and now im paying almost 500 a month for my car to sit in my driveway because no one wants to ride in it.
UNKNOWN while driving, the electrical system seemed to malfunction causing the lights to flash on/off, the rear windshield wiper to activate, the horn was blaring (quick repeated beeps, with occasional blaring), the dash indicated that the parking brake could not be used, indicated that the airbag system was not working, indicated that the driver-??s side seatbelt was not connected, amongst other warnings that I cannot recall. The ABS brakes were not working, nor was the power steering. The car indicated that it needed to be put into park, and allowed for the turning of the dial; however, the dash indicated that the vehicle was moving too quickly to shift into park. We were able to make a turn onto a street with an uphill incline from the road we were driving on; and the brakes stopped the car - using a lot of force as the ABS braking system was still malfunctioning. The vehicle was put into park and the parking brake indicated that it was active; but of course could not be trusted as the indicators on the dash had been so haywire just moments before. While the vehicle was -??off-?? the horn was still blaring (both short beeps and intermittently long blares), the rear wiper was still active (while in the off position), and the interior lights were flickering. This continued until the red connector was disconnected from the battery. The black connector seemed to make no change, connected or not. When the red connector was reconnected, the electrical issues seemed to be replicated with the horn and rear wiper. The vehicle was towed and we have no current answers. This was extremely dangerous as we lost all power and control of the car. We were driving, on what is oftentimes, a very busy street.
I received P258B warning and further diagnosis came to know that C0021-02 and C1252-92 warnings. While applying breaks i am getting hissing noise and break pedal pushes me back where i have to apply lot of pressure to stop the vehicle. This is happening only when i press the pedals hard. I did diagnosis and noticed that the break vaccum pump fuse gone and replaced the same again it blown. Then realized that that the Vaccum pump it self is not working and the same is ordered and replaced. Now the vaccum pump issue is fixed but still the break pedals are hard and getting hissing noise while applying breaks. Now i may need to change the break booster to get this fixed.
Computer Code P258B - Electric Vacuum Pump - After fixing code P000B with an oil change, the P258B code caused the check engine light to come back on and after further investigation found that the wire that comes from the pump looks like it has started melting. The external wiring casing is no longer covering the wires and the piece plugged into the pump looks like its splitting. I finally found the part through the Mopar site but is referred to as an Air Pump: Product ID: 68274999AD. Luckily the car has not stalled or caught on fire. The vehicle has not been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance reps, or others. I plan on ordering the part to install myself as personal funds don't allow me the luxury of taking to the dealer to have this done. I will keep the part if the manufacturer wants it to inspect.
When having to press hard on brakes my vehicle does not stop right away. I have to pump them to get my van to stop. When at a light with vehicle stopped by pressing on break the brake pedal will push back up with force and start moving forward.
- Converse, TX, USA
Search CarComplaints.com for these popular complaint phrases...
Battery light comes on, power steering goes out, start/stop function switches in and out of accessory mode, then total power drain and vehicle will not turn over or maintain a charge. vehicle is available for inspection. safety was compromised by lack of control of steering and vehicle shutdown in a roadway. issue has not been reproduced by independent services or dealer or other representatives. battery light appeared, etcs light came on, voltage meter drained very quickly until total loss of power.
Since owning the vehicle for over 3 years the brake shave been hissing and inconsistently engage when pressing the brake pedal. I have had several near accidents ranging from rolling into some while in a stopped position (moved vehicle to park to avoid), to almost causing major collisions on hwy do to the inability to come to a quick stop or slow. It is pure luck I have not been in an accident.
For MANY years we've struggled with hard shifting by transmission. When brought to dealer, they couldn't find anything wrong. We also complained about a continuous ticking sound from dashboard when vehicle was turned off. It lasts for several minutes. We are now experiencing brake pedal issues where brake pedal fights against the foot when trying to push it down...and uncalled for instances of windows auto lowering. Only now am I learning that there have been several recalls for these items and we've never been informed. When looking up our VIN for recalls, the site say we have "0" unfixed recall items, even though we've never been informed of the recalls.
Brake system is not functioning correctly. The pedal completely depressed, car does not stop. Requires pumping brake pedal once or twice to stop vehicle. This is a concerning safety issue. Took the care fir service, no issue was found. Vehicle still not braking correctly.
I was driving my van and the dash board turns on and off several times. It starts to light all lights while I'm driving. It was a scary situation while im driving my vans brakes while I'm in the freeway. This has happened several times. I also had my vehicle not turn on at all It stays locked and the dash boards says come error code. My vehicle jerks randomly and feels its gonna shut off. Had to tow the car to the dealer, no problem found. On another occasion my transmission was defective and it was changed.. It's has been taken to the dealer several times and I continue to have electrical issues and mechanical issues. I contacted the manufacturer and asked to do a buy back. The company refused and I explained all the issues that I have on my van and no resolution was made.
Vehicle on several occasions has slowly rolled forward when at a complete stop with brake fully engaged. Brake needed to be released and depressed again to stop vehicle. Multiple incidents have occurred while being fully stopped for traffic control devices. Latest incident occurred today, January 15, 2023.
The brakes were extremely hard to push and stop the vehicle. I took it to a local auto mechanic and they identified the issue as a failed brake booster. The repair shop replaced the booster and the vehicle is working correctly now. This is the 2nd time the brake booster has failed on this vehicle (1st repair was within the 1st year of ownership). It appears Chrysler is aware of this issue as it has extended the warranty for certain model years.
Brake booster issue. Makes a hissing sound when braking and almost to the point where i will hit the car in front of me. At a stop light the brake pedal will rise and car will move forward although im pushing down.
While traveling on a dry highway, with good tires/new tires, and decelerating from 45 mph and approaching a red light, and a moderate, but firm pressure on the brake to bring the van to a full stop, the speed decreased to 15 mph, with the tachometer stable at 800 rpm and then to 10 mph, with both hands on the wheel, left foot on the dead pedal, and right foot on the middle of the brake pedal. As the speedometer made the transition at 10 MPH, the tachometer surged to 1500 RPM and then to 3000 in under 3 seconds, which cause me to initiate an emergency action drill of stabbing the brake pedal hard three times and rotating the transmission control to the lowest gear. The transmission refused to shift lower, and the control of the vehicle turned on oa wrestling match and the tachometer surged from 1500 RPM, them 3000 RPM, then 4500 RPM, and then 6000 RPM, each time the vehicle acting like it was repeatedly being rear-ended at a speed exceeding 15 MPH. The engine could not be disengaged and aceelaretd uncontrollably to over 40 MPH, through a busy intersection, and required over 24 hard break stages over a 10 second period to actually stop the car, and the engine refused to disengage until stopped. Once the car was restarted it immediately surged forward trying to fight through the hard applied brakes. The cruise control was never on the entire time. I then stut down the engine once I was able to wretle it to a stop with the engine climbing to over 4500 RPM. I then took this vehicle to a safe area, and repeated the conditions, and again as the vehilce speed dropped below 15 MPH, and certainly below 10 MPH, the engine tachometer increased in steps of 1500 MPH, 3000, 4500, 6000 RPM, and no control could be achieved other then violently "stabbing" the brake pedal. Under controlled conditions the behavior was repeatable over 20 times. This is a life threatenign defect, and it appears to be software in origin. I have CAN data streams from the events (23) and video.
My wife said that she was pulling into a parking spot and did not have her foot on the accelerator as she coasted into the spot. The car accelerated by itself she had to step hard on the brake to get it to stop before she hit another car. It was not a problem with a floor mat since they are snapped into place and do not come close to the pedals. I do see that similar problems have been reported on this type of vehicle with no satisfaction received. This incident is the 2nd time it has happened according to my wife. She does most of the driving around town.
When using service brakes and trying to stop the vehicle, I have to push down on the brake pedal multiple times to get the vehicle to stop. Which caused me to almost run several red lights and stop signs. While stopped at a stop light, and my foot is on the brake pedal, the pedal goes to the floor and I have to push down on the brakes multiple times. There is also air noise when pushing down on the brake pedal.
We-??ve written the NHTSA in the past and have not received a response. We understand Covid was a problem that messed a lot of things up and we-??ve been patient until now and we-??re writing again hoping for a long awaited response. We purchased new (on 03/10/17) a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica with the factory installed tow package, which Dealer and Chrysler Corp claimed it could tow 3600 pounds, so we can purchase and tow a 3500 pound RV but since the van purchase we have learned that we need trailer brakes on any trailer weighing more than 2500 pounds so the van and trailer could stop safely. After much investigation and many calls with our Dealer, Chrysler Corporation and many RV Dealers, it turns out the 2017 model year that Chrysler Corporation claimed it could tow up to 3600 pounds, can not In fact safely tow over 2500 pounds without a brake controller/trailer brakes and our van, which was purchased with the factory tow package, was not designed or wired to accommodate the necessary brake controller to tow over 2500 pounds and it can not be retrofitted with a necessary brake controller. The Dealer advised taking the matter up with Chrysler Corporation and Chrysler advised taking the matter up with the Dealer, and neither will resolve the safety issue. Can you please tell us if this is a safety issue or if in your opinion we can safely tow a 3500 pound RV without a brake controller and trailer brakes or do you recommend we seek legal counsel. Thanks very much for your time and expertise in this serious matter. Anxiously awaiting your response.
Issue with horn, lights, coolent, engine gaskets, park brakes sticking, turning signal, , electrical al connected some how but 4 Chrysler dealers and they can't duplicate it even with pics and video I've shown.paying for car I can't use. Any other similar issues or am I the only one driving the ghost car.
When taking off from a stop and begin to accelerates it like it goes to neutral the engine's been revs and then shifts back into gear can cause a really hard jarred in the car all happens in about a second it has done it roughly 20 or so times in the 4 months we've owned it and the and when breaking and accelerating you can hear a clicking in the front of driver tire area and the back sliding doors will not always shut it takes multiple attempts what the electric motors sometimes you have to manually shut the doors
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Kenner , LA, USA