This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Yesterday I experienced an SUA incident and nearly lost my life. I was entering a freeway and began to accelerate my car. Suddenly I felt as if the gears kicked and the car began to accelerate on its own to max revolutions. I pressed down on the brakes to see if it would stop and there was heavy resistance. I took my foot on the break and the car began to accelerate and rev completely on its own and the engine felt as if it was going to explode. I luckily was able to jam my foot on the break and pull over to the emergency lane and eventually come to a full stop. From there I put the car in park and removed my foot from the break pedal. Again the car began to jump to full revs with the engine screaming. I turned the car off and on several times and this continued to happen. After waiting one hour I was able to start the car and drive 20 mph back to my home and I will have it towed to a repair shop shortly. If I panicked or was not strong enough to press down on the brake pedal, the car would have accelerated to full speed and I certainly would have died and likely other people would have too.
Depressed accelerator pedal lightly to proceed through an intersection.roughly 10 mph into the acceleration the vehicle suddenly without warning accelerated on its own through the next intersection causing a 3 car accident and 4 people injured.all vehicles involved were disabling damage with mine being the worst, total loss.air bags did not deploy causing injury to passenger and I resulting in seizures to passenger from head trauma.this defect of the vehicle has caused a major financial burden on me and my family from the date of accident and well into the future with my insurance rates since I have been deemed at faullt due to car accelerating instead of allowing me to stop.
Car randomly stalls, at any speed, dash lights flash on and off, wipers turn on by them self, horn sounds by itself. Had it at the dealership for 2 months, had at sometimes 40+ codes come up on the computer. Changed multiply modules they cant figure it out
While on a curvy road after dark, at 45 mph, the electrical system shut down, dash lights flashed and went off, engine died. 40 mph on a curvy road with no lights. After 20 seconds it all came back on. Had no problems for 3 months. Electrical system has momentarily shut down on 4 other occasions since then. On 12/08/15 my wife was in line at the dandridge elementary school picking up my grandson. While in car pickup line with the transmission in drive, the dash lights came on, the vehicle accelerated (surged forward) then died. Engine died 5 times before she could get it home. This would be called a near miss accident in a workplace setting.car is operating normally at this time. I held an ase master technician certification and in my opinion it is a dangerous electrical condition. I realize that someone must die in order to get this problem fixed and that is a shame.
- Dandridge, TN, USA
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My car has been displaying erratic behavior for about the last seven months. The more recent problem I've experienced is that my car shuts off at a complete stop and sometimes as I'm braking to come to a stop at a light and power steering locks up as it shuts off. I feel this is extremely unsafe being I've dodged a few accidents already because of this issue. What if I'm at a light and getting ready to turn or make a U turn and it shuts off in on coming traffic, or if I'm on the highway and I have to suddenly brake and it shuts off at high speeds. I'm not sure what can be done but I hope I can get help some way, some how. I feel my life depends on it.
I was traveling on a highway posted legal speed 65mp as I released the gas pedal it broke and fell on the floor body of the driver side. I then quickly turned on the cruise control to navigate my speed for the nearest safe exit to inspect the damage. Damage was clear that the gas pedal housing unit was broken from the screw ends of the unit, as the housing unit is made of high grade plastic.
When I started pulling out of the driveway it started to shutter badly and stalled out. It started back up but it immediately was running very rough as if it wasn't running on all cylinders. I took it to my mechanic where he put it on the scanner and a code came up stating that the #6 cylinder was faulty. When running the car has no power and you can hear a distinct clicking of the mds solenoid. As it click on and off the cars idle was normal then very rough. Service records are immaculate, oil changed every 3000 miles with mobil 5-20 full synthetic. Service suggestions have been strictly followed. The solenoid was changed out and it ran fine for about 500 miles and then it started doing it again, very random and mostly when you go into passing gear on the freeway that's when you totally lose power and it shutters violently. We cant find anything for suggestions on how to fix it except that it may be a bad computer or a clogged oil port in the cylinder head. Both possible solutions are very costly and I would hate to spend all that money and it not fix the issue. There is a serious issue because of the acceleration problem could very well cause a serious accident.
Car stalls when idle, car stalls when at low speed, car stalls when starting to drive (at low speeds), all power/electric cuts out intermittently while in motion.
My Chrysler 300C hemi started idling rough and showing code P0300. Oil/plugs were changed, and my car worked well for ~500 miles. After which the low oil level light chimmed. After taking to the dealer the oil pressure switch was replaced and all was right. Close to a month later, while stopped at a rail crossing the car stalled with error code P1520. I checked the oil which was low and added to the correct level. In the oil, there was no discoloration or anything to cause alarm. I started the engine up and while the P1520 was gone I had the P0300. After removing the manifold small aluminum pieces where found inside. Plugs that were close to 4K miles old were ash covered and throttle body. Valves and cylinder #3 head need to be replaced.
I filled up the car with gas and after driving about half a mile the engine stalled while in traffic. The car started and stalled repeatedly five or six times for about four blocks. At a certain point the problem stopped and the car was drivable. I took the car to a nearby auto shop and they found no error codes in the system. After leaving the auto shop the car continued to drive without stalling. Several weeks later I filled up with gas again and the problem repeated itself after driving about half a mile. The engine stalled about five times. It was more difficult to turn the engine over this time but it eventually started and drove fine.
Filled up tank for the first time since purchasing my 2006 Chrysler 300C. (came from the dealership with a full tank) no more than 2 minutes of driving later the car began to shudder and lurch as if it were going to die. I was able to put it in neutral and keep it running but it was running rough. Continued on and pulled into a parking lot where the car died. I was able to restart it but it died shortly after. Restarted it again and was able to keep it running by giving it a little throttle. I began combing the internet and discovered this to be a fairly common issue after filling up. I limped the car home and siphoned a few gallons out. It seems to be running ok since then.
My husband filled up the tank on 110413 (already had 1/4 tank). I drove to and from work, but once I backed into the yard the vehicle would not crank again. As I revved the engine the car would act like it would continue running after the initial start up, but as soon as I took my foot off of the accelerator the car cut off. I had to have the car towed to a Chrysler dealership, but no one mentioned the issues that customers have been having with this specific vehicle (2006 300C with hemi). Vehicle is currently in the shop and the mechanic mentioned it might be the engine... oh really!!!!!
I was on the way to a doctors appt with my pregnant daughter on 264 heading towards chesapeake, va. I was doing 55 mph and the tank was on 1/8 th of a tank. As we were driving, about 15 min later, the car lurched, a ding was heard, the etc light flashed, the rpms dropped to 0, then resumed a second later causing the lurching forward. About 3 to 4 minutes and intermittently over the next 15 min later, it did the same thing, but also stalled at the stop lights on the way there. No codes came up when diagnostics were put on it. The throttle control unit was replaced and a relearn was done, this did nothing. Same thing happened. I have read many other reports of this happening and no one has an exact fix for this. Also, may have nothing to do with this, but about 2 weeks prior to this happening, I was filling up with gas and the tank overflowed. No problems occurred through the next 3 or 4 fill ups, the tank was on an 1/8 when the first hesitation and stalling occurred.
I backed my vehicle out of the driveway, headed downhill to the intersection. I stopped at the stop sign, as I accelerated leaving the stop sign, the vehicle stalled out. I placed the shifter in neutral and restarted the vehicle. Drove to the next intersection and the vehicle did the same thing. After the initial problem I drove the vehicle to the dealership, where I purchased the vehicle. The vehicle was, and is, still under warranty. The dealership diagnosed the problem to be a failed throttle control and brake pedal assembly, estimated cost of around $1,000. They would not say for sure if the repairs would fix the problem. These repairs would not be covered by my extended warranty. My vehicle has stalled out sporadically this past several months, sometimes in heavy traffic, where I could easily be rear ended. My vehicle has the 5.7 liter hemi V8 engine with automatic transmission.
The contact owns a 2006 Chrysler 300C. The contact stated that after refueling, the engine stalled while driving at 5 mph. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for inspection and they stated that the charcoal canister needed to be replaced and the throttle needed to be cleaned. The vehicle was repaired but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was notified. The failure mileage was 70,000. Updated 07/10/13 the consumer stated the fuel tank module failed. When the tank was filled it caused the engine to lose power. Updated 07/19/2013
While merging on the freeway, the gas pedal made a cracking sound while pushing it down. 3 days later while in heavy traffic while pushing the accelerator pedal down it made a cracking sound and broke off, fell down, and was hanging by the wires. It has a thin plastic mounting flange. That will break off easily with not much foot pressure. New one installed with a radiator clamp around the whole thing to beef it up, added screws. So far it has kept me from getting rear ended in traffic.
When foot is taken off of the accelerator, the car continues to accelerate. This occurs anytime you accelerate, from 0 to 50 and from 50 to 70. Substantial brake pressure has to be applied for the acceleration to stop. This happens whether or not the cruise is on. The dealership refused to fix under warranty as the mileage had expired by 500 miles.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Oceanside , CA, USA