This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
The contact owns a 2010 Chrysler 300. The contact stated while attempting to turn off the vehicle, the vehicle remained powered on without the key in the ignition. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer where it was diagnosed with needing the WIN module replaced however, the vehicle was not repaired. Upon investigation, the contact associated the failure with NHTSA Campaign Number: 10V200000 (Electrical System) however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and informed the contact that the VIN was not under recall. The failure mileage was 124,725.
On May 9th I went to pick up my check and I freaking ran over run over a big rock in the street and it it put like a little hole in my oil pan well this is my first car I've had already my second car I haven't had it for that long so what I did was I'm going to try to get home as the oil slowly leaking out but I was going to try to get home and I drive for like for like 3 minutes at like 20 at like 25 miles per hour 30 miles per hour and like probably like three or four minutes from that incident and I stopped before that too to get the money and then I tried to raise home whatever I'm driving and in the key pops out the addition but it always pops out the ignition crazy and s*** but then the car just like like the lights just act like they they just died on me while I was driving he pops out the lights or whatever and then I stayed that day with my car that happened at 5:00 I was trying to patch up the oil coming out and it turned out to be 2:00 when I noticed it was 2:00 and the oil still coming out all this extra s*** I was probably 1:00 and I bought a oil I bought a one thing oil just to keep keep it in there and stuff cuz I thought I lightweight patched up and I end up getting it towed to my house and I'm the person I'm going to make sure it gets fixed before I drive this stuff is 138,000 Miles only had it for like 2 months now would be like three or four months but yeah and put the oil pan on and somebody stole my radio so I don't know they f***** up some stuff in there but I go to turn on like finally turning the car and stuff and then it is giving me a mobilizer warning it it dies out the battery when I was trying to do it excessively but it's like this stuff thing going on the key won't f****** stand in ignition you like pops out every time I turn it all the way over no matter what key it is only got two of the fob and the transponder the door maybe they've been broken into or something so it looks all sketchy can't put a key into the door and p0 513..
Low oil pressures lite comes on blinks goes out when you press down on the peddle to accelerate car replaced oil sending unit still does it has to be electrical problem car 10 years old
The totally integrated power module (tipm) has failed on my vehicle. At first it started as a dead battery which was replaced, then a parasitic draw which could not be diagnosed right away, then caused my started not to have power. The car would turn itself on while it was turned off and make the lights bug out and horn sound. Then it would stop and start again multiple times draining the battery. I was driving between states and I stopped for gas when my car no longer started and was stranded there for hours before it would start again. Its stationary when the car would turn itself on and off.
- Salt Lake City, UT, USA
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2010 Chrysler 300C. The push button module is defective causing the key fob not to work properly. I have to push the lock button on the key fob then press it against the push button in order for it to crank. Key fob has new battery, but it still won't crank by just pressing the brake pedal and pushing the start button.
Alternator fails causing engine stalling while driving for vehicles equipped with a 5.7L or 3.6L engine and a 160, 180 or 220 amp alternator, the alternator of the vehicle may fail, resulting in the engine stalling while driving. A failed alternator would also lead to a dead battery, preventing the vehicle from having electrical power to start. The alternator in affected vehicles also could possibly short circuit, causing an engine fire. The car turned off while in the drive position. I was leaving the company parking deck. I received two battery jumps the car turned on and once the jumping cables was removed and the gear switched to the position of drive the car turned off. I also purchased a new battery this year as it happened before earlier this year
Ignition switch caused engine to shut down while driving and caused problems with starting. After three trips to dealer problem was found to be the ignition switch and was replaced. Stalling while driving is a safety issue that should be cause for a recall. Note! the expensive ignition switch was replaced at my cost. I have the repair invoices.
The contact owns a 2010 Chrysler 300. The contact received notification of NHTSA campaign number: 15V313000 (air bags) however, the part to do the recall repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure.
The contact owns a 2010 Chrysler 300. The contact stated that the vehicle stalled for approximately five seconds before it started. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was 36,060. Updated 12/18/15; updated 04/23/18
Came out of store, turned iginition over and smoke started coming out of vents drove about 25 feet and had to evacuate car smoke was choking us. Husband lifted hood and no smoke there. So he went to the battery in the trunk and disconnected the cable thinking it would stop but the smoke got thicker. Flames started coming out of the dash. A citizen came running with a fire extinguisher and was putting the fire out and the fire dept came and finished it.
The contact owns a 2010 Chrysler 300. The contact received notification of NHTSA campaign number: 14V567000 (electrical system) however, the part to do the repairs was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure.
The contact owned a 2010 Chrysler 300. The contact stated that while driving 45 mph, there was a loud popping sound and immediately afterwards flames emitted out the dashboard. The fire department was able to extinguish the fire. The vehicle was destroyed and towed. A police report was filed. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The dealer was contacted and made the contact aware that the vehicle was included in NHTSA campaign number: 15V313000 (air bags); however, the notice had not been sent out due to the parts not being available. The contact received the noticed five days after the incident. The approximate failure mileage was 92,000. Updated 11/06/15 updated 11/02/2017
The contact owns a 2010 Chrysler 300. The contact stated that while driving 20 mph, the vehicle began to loose power. The contact stated that she pulled over and the vehicle regained power independently. The contact stated that she then saw smoke emerge from the trunk so she immediately pulled the vehicle over and exited. The vehicle became engulfed in flames. The contact was not injured. A fire report was not filed. The contact's insurance appraiser inspected the vehicle and determined that the fire originated from a battery spark. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 101,000.
My car wouldn't start by pushing start button. I called a local (Laredo) Chrysler dealership they said it was probably the key just needed to be programmed, since message showed key damaged. I took the button off and was able to drive car with key. After, $160 they returned the car to me without replacing the start button back on-- which was in cup holder. I replaced the start button and to my disappointed, car still didn't start. Ok, 1st ?, you'd think they would have tested the vehicle, since that was the initial complaint. Message still shows --key damaged! service mgr. Claims that I am already getting off easy because he didn't charge me labor, really what labor--it doesn't start. Now, he claims it's not the key...it's something else and there is no way they could have known --now I need to pay an additional $187, plus 1/2 for labor--he's cutting me a deal on the labor fees. Needless to say I asked to speak to his supervisor and he is it, wouldn't allow me nor would tell me his supervisor was. He said he was the one who made the decisions and it's final. So, I'm out $160, still didn't get my car fixed. Upon researching I saw several complaints on the (win) system for these vehicles. Is it a recall and is the dealership required to fix it? also, how can we as consumers be better educated per say to be aware of what these dealerships should be repairing/replacing based on recalls. I can bet they are not volunteering recall information at the dealership. And how can we be certain that they are actually doing the job and not just sending the car to service and not really repairing what the recall is advising to fix.
The contact owns a 2010 Chrysler 300. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to start. The contact also mentioned that the failure recurred intermittently. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the failure was unable to be diagnosed. The manufacturer was contacted about the failure. The failure mileage was 50,000. The VIN was unavailable.
On November 09, 2010 I purchased a 2010 chyrsler 300C with a hemi. On the same day I bought the vehicle the driver memory seat would not return to position when the vehicle is shut off. This was an intermittent problem. On November 10,2010 I returned to the dealership where the vehicle was purchased and complained of the problem. I have now had the vehicle to dealer on three separate occasions. Repair orders states vehicle is working as designed, shut car off first then open door. If door is opened first, will not work and the third repair order states duplicated by two employees of dealership. Vehicle was checked against stock units they all perform the same every 7th to 8th time - the seat does not return for easy exit. I was also informed there was a bulletin for this problem and it has to do with a sensor but as of this time there is no fix for the problem because chyrsler can not figure out how to fix the failure. The dealership informed me I could have the remote start button taken out and use the key and the seat will work everytime. I bought the vehicle with the remote start feature and I should be able to use that feature. The vehicle has been to dealership on November 10th,19th and 22nd of 2010.
- Port Charlotte, FL, USA
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- Copiague, NY, USA