This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
10/5/2021 I had the coolant expansion tank replaced because it was leaking. Its leaking again 2023 same place. (Picture below in now same place as before)
When taking off, sometimes the vehicle does not want to excellerate. It seems like the transmission is slipping or not switching gears-it makes a loud clicking gear sound. The vehicle also revs up really loud. It also sometimes feels like the vehicle sulks back when lifting your foot off the gas peddle when accelerating, more than it should. These mishaps make it nearly impossible to excellerate and is dangerous when excellerating onto the highway.
The gas guage meter failed to work and didn't show where the gas was and so this is dangerous because if you are driving and you were on the freeway and the car stopped because of gas, this could cause an accident and you could be hurt or killed. This part should be a recall on the car because I never should had to fix this for the lifetime of the car at all or at least after 100,000 miles, which it only had 39,000 and I had to end up paying for the ECM and having to reprogram it, which cost me over $1,000, which being disabled, I had to borrow money from a friend to do this. I paid $220 to have the Chevy Dealer tell me that was the problem and have paperwork to prove this. There was also an engine light that came, when this happened.
Si my cars been having issues for about a couple of weeks now with speed and it-??s been driving rough, it hadn-??t given me any check engine lights so I went to a mechanic he changed the throttle body thinking that was the issue however the issue persisted and even got worse. I-??ve noticed it doesn-??t seem to go into gear when I-??m driving then when it finally does it looses power, it-??s also really high on the rpm-??s and when it-??s in park it-??ll seem like it wants to turn off.
I have been having issues with my car getting stuck in gear or not wanting to switch gears, as well as sometimes when I try to go and I'm pushing the gas pedal it's like it doesn't move or try to drive then there is a loud knock and it revs all the way up and still doesn't really move then there is another loud knock and it takes off slowly and over revs and sputters and drives very odd, like it's struggling to go and keeps trying to switch gears. The check engine light keeps going on and off and every once in a while my traction light comes on as well. I took it to auto zone and this is the codes they received, "Powertrain Trouble Code Description: Pressure Control Solenoid "B" Control Circuit Range/Performance Powertrain Secondary Trouble Codes: P0965, P070." I have no idea how to afford to fix it and when doing research online about it alot of spark owners have had this issue and no recall has been placed. It is very dangerous and I can't even drive on the highway because my car simply won't go. I got stuck at a green light trying to go and almost got hit by a semi because my car simply wouldn't move. I am scared for my life to drive this car and this is an issue that needs to be addressed because I am still paying off this car, barely had it a couple years and maybe half of my loan time and can't even drive it. I am livid and will not put my life in danger because y'all won't issue a recall for a SERIOUS PROBLEM with this car. I have to be able to get to work and I can't with a car that is constantly trying to kill me. Please help!
- Arlington, TX, USA
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When accelerating (between 5-30mph), the vehicle stutters to gain power/speed-it almost feels like there's a delay in the execution when trying to accelerate. The vehicle will then lunge forward, then sulk back as if the engine has temporarily lost power. The lunge, sulk back and stutter are progressively worsening, to the point that the plunge and sulk are occurring at more varying speed changes more and more frequently (accelerating or lifting off the gas peddle to slow down).
The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Spark. While driving at various speeds, the vehicle intermittently lost motive power with a knocking sound detected in the engine. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to independent mechanic where the contact was informed that the vehicle experienced piston failure. Neither the dealer nor manufacturer was contacted. The failure mileage was 81,500.
When I take off, like from stopping at a red light, and my car shudders and makes a clunking sound when it shifts gears. I saw where there are recalls for the car "hard shifting" and could this be the same thing
The jug that holds my antifreeze developed a hole right where the hose connects to it and antifreeze was dripping onto a belt. My car would make a screeching sound and hesitate while I was driving. I replaced the belt but then other stuff started going wrong. The engine revs up while I am driving and the car will hesitate each time this happens, it usually happens several times in a few seconds then drives fine for a short while. No pattern, just happens randomly. This has been going on for a couple of months. On 08/07/1019 I was driving 320 miles to copperas cove, tx from lubbock, tx. After driving about 100 miles my car studdered real bad and I lost all power as I turned a corner. Then the check engine light came on. I stepped on the gas to the floor and my car would barley move. I managed to get to a gas station where I had to wait for a tow back to lubbock. Something about the device that puts oxygen into the gas as it goes into the engine is not working properly. I found several complaints about the same experience online. I only have about 54000 miles on my car. My alarm goes off 99% of the time if I lock my car, and my windshield wiper fluid does not dispense.
While I was driving the car, the check engine light starts comes on, and the car loses its ability to accelerate properly and shakes all over like it's about to fall apart. This is particularly dangerous when I'm on the highway and the car suddenly forces itself to go slower and won't accelerate beyond 25-30 mph
Car lost power and took longer to accelerate than normal while I was driving it. My car's dashboard showed the check engine light, reduced engine power light and a loss of traction control light. A car diagnostic recommended to change the throttle position sensor which I have done with no success. A dealership diagnostic said there was faulty wiring which would cost $600 to fix. I have not gone through with the repairs as of yet. I have met at least 2 other people that have this problem.
The engine coolant/anti-freeze reservoir leaks. ** only leaks when driving*** I realized this when doing an inspection before a long drive (car was stationary). When I inspected under the hood I could see residue from a leak and smell the coolant. I filled it and the next day it was empty again, after driving 11 hours between 2 days. No light indicators are present or flashing. A few evenings ago some coolant must have leaked onto or next to the engine because there was a small amount of smoke coming from under my hood. When typing 2014 Chevy Spark antifreeze leak into google, there are many complaints. Everyone is having the same issue in the same place. Please have this recalled.
I called a dealership multiple times for a year stating that my transmission seemed to be slipping. They told me it wasn't possibly the transmission. However, I was just driving, stopped at a light, went to accelerate to go through the light, I heard click click and the engine revved, but the car did not move. I popped it in to low, tried again, nothing. Went to neutral, then to reverse, tried again, nothing.
The car will power down while driving, despite having adequate charge. The message "press power button again to shut off" appears even though the power button has not been pressed. Then the car shuts down and coasts to a stop.
My 2014 vehicle only has 52,000 miles. The coolant is leaking from the middle seam of the reservoir tank as well as the top hose connection. Thankfully I observed coolant on my garage floor to put me on notice of the leak. If I had been parked outdoors, I would not have been aware of the coolant leaking and risked permanent engine damage from lack of coolant. The coolant tank should not fail this soon. This has to be a defectively designed part. I read on a Chevy Spark owner's forum that several owners of the 2014 Spark have experienced this same leaking reservoir tank at the same 50K mileage mark. The Chevy dealer is going to charge me $400 to make this repair. Chevy should possess a computer record of how many 2014 Sparks have had their coolant tank replaced to place them on notice that the part is defectively designed to fail after only 50,000 miles. Chevy should issue a recall on the coolant tank so that people do not permanently damage their engine by unknowingly driving without coolant because of this defectively designed leaking coolant tank.
2014 Chevy Spark motor lost compression in two cylinders @ 60K miles, whitmore Chevrolet in West point, va. Took approx. 5.5 weeks to replace the cylinder head, with no loaner car available to me. Service manager yelled at me for stopping when I would stop by to inquire about the cars status, same when I would call. Neither the calls or visits were even daily, he was horrible to deal with. In the meantime I contacted GM about this & they did essentially nothing other than state that dealers are independantly owned & they gave me 15 months of onstar...I would rather have a car the functioned as designed. Fast forward approx. 2 months & the ac stopped working. Tried contacting whimore about the failed ac system, service group either hangs up on me or simply do not call back. Contacted another Chevy dealer & was told that I either go back to whitmore or pay to have the ac fixed at their dealership. After buying GM since 1987 I guess I will be looking into other manufacturers very, very soon as I now need 3 new vehicles.
Transmission fluid leak: P0075 error code. Vehicle previously had a fluid leak from a bolt securing transmission housing to engine. Leak visible under vehicle near the muffler pipe. Seal replaced on vehicle; approx mileage 15,000. Came to complete stop and when attempting to accelerate grinding noise/no power. Vehicle exhibited odd behavior in drive/tranmission. Vehicle went into limp mode several times at around 85,000 miles, on making a stop at a stop sign and would not accelerate. Reported to dealership only misfiring codes found. Failure at 101,000 miles. Made a complete stop after driving and vehicle would not accelerate. P0075 code. I found that the transmission is leaking from the same location, near the muffler pipe beneath the engine.
Car motor will not shut off when key is not in the ignition and ignition is in the off position. Car is still drive-able, it will switch gears and is able to be driven. Motor continues to run. Had to shut down car by taking out a fuse under the hood. Car is able to restart using key. A week later car motor will turn off, but the inside chime is going off, leaving car parked! I read other reports on the exact same issue.
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- Peabody , MA, USA