This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
I'm coming to a stop or slowing down the car shuts off. Even when making a turn in front of another car across traffic my car has turned off in the middle of crossing the street and I almost got hit twice now. This affects the cruise control coming on as well the speedometer fluctuates back and forth the whole time I'm driving. This happens every day and at most times when I'm coming to a stop or coming out of a stop. I just have to test the gas before I make a turn in front of oncoming traffic to cross the road to make sure that I have power and then I go as fast as I can across so that hopefully I'll gain enough speed so that the car doesn't shut off again. So usually it's every time I come to a red light which is at least at the very least from my work to home is four lights and at every light it will do it. Oftentimes I cross traffic and it will do it. I just had to be very careful
I do not know what system affects the problem my car is having it stalls in front of oncoming traffic on left turns it's done this to me 3 to 4 times and it scares me. It will start right back up and go but it'll still continuously throughout the day when I slow down or come to a red light. The speed control sensor went out and I replaced it and there seem to be middle or something on that. I've read different reports or seen on YouTube that people have reported the same problem with their cars it is definitely a safety issue had it not started up or had I panicked like I did the first time and almost not get it started but a car could crash into me because my car stalled in front of traffic the problem has not been reproduced for anybody and there has been no report to dealership insurance police anything like that. I have checked periodically to see if there is a recall on it and there hasn't been this is the first time I'm seeing where you can report something like this so I thought I would
Engine remains running after ignition is turned off when parked after driving more than 20 miles on the highway. Daughter reports this has occurred several times in the past six month. The engine is growling when driving indicating some type of failure of components. This occurred on our street at approximately 10 mph..
- Longmont, CO, USA
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Car will start to jerk when accelerating and loose power and not shift. Engine light flashes and sometimes traction control light stays on as well during this. If you shut off engine wait for few minutes then start it's ok. Happens when ever. Just happened yesterday and today.
Used car w/36,000 miles and/or 1 yr wrnty. Under a yr, but outside of mileage, check eng light starts coming on to the day, from Feb 28, 2017 to May 28, 2017. From Feb 28 to Mar 27 to April 27 have had to do oil change. Check eng light would no longer be on after oil change. Then car started making excessively loud noise at 77,000 miles so loud no one could hear me while on my blue tooth. Chevy dealer & a shop ran a diagnostic but no error codes in April & May. Shop tells me tires are cupping, I need new tires that were pretty much new at used car dealer. Chevy dealer tells me no error codes on diagnostic plus I need wheel hub bearings, tire shop tells me the tires need replacing, does a thorough inspect while car is on lift, says problem is struts in front need replacing immediately & shocks need replacing soon on back then says wheel hub bearings are fine, it's the hub bracket that is loose & making rattling noise along with bad tire noise. This is at 80,000 miles. Got tires, no money to do other work. Small local shop near home confirms big O is correct, tires are cupped & it's due to bad front shocks. Highly unusual for 80,000 miles May 3 dealer looks at reason for deceleration which started end of April, slowing to almost a crawl on freeway while accelerator is pressed all the way down to floor, dealer says they drove car, can't find problem. Couldn't be, mileage on car same when picked up as when dropped off. May 28, 2017 check engine light is on, car started knocking, got to work 70 miles from home, noticed on a full tank of gas, car was using fuel at rapid pace sitting on idle in parking lot. Started with 214 miles to drive on full tank of gas, indicator shows 104 miles left off 70 mile trip then dropped to 96 while sitting idle for a less than a minute in parking lot! mother tells me turn off engine. Said check to see if fuel is dripping under car. It is not.
This car accelerates on its own even when clutch is on. Also the motor sounds like it going to blow out on its own and stops and goes as fast it came. This cars has only 53000 miles and has been to dealer several times.
Slowly pulled car into the driveway. Entered the garage with my foot on the brake. Half way into garage, the engine over accelerated and made the car lunge forward. My foot was still on the brake pedal. The brakes went into ABS mode, with pulsating. The car rammed into some storage totes and also my snowblower. The over acceleration of the engine stopped. All of this took about 10 - 15 seconds. No amount of pressure on the brake pedal stopped this car. No, I did not have my foot on the gas pedal. The car went into my local Chevy dealer 2 days later. I was told that they ran some tests, had it up on a lift & even had a mechanic take it out to try to duplicate the problem. Of course, they couldn't find anything wrong. Someone needs to do something about all these over & under acceleration problems before lives are lost! my car has a few minor dents on the hood, from falling totes my snowblower is slightly dented but my nerves are shot. I am really scared to drive this car.
Takata recall: I purchased this vehicle Oct 9 2015 with 56K miles on it. From the day I purchased it up to today I have been hearing a humming/buzzing/whistling noise coming from the rear of the vehicle. I had it checked out by a repair shop and was told it was a faulty fuel pump with an estimated cost of $500. The noise can be heard only when the car is on and running and it can be heard inside and outside of the vehicle when stopped or moving. It can be heard from inside and outside the vehicle and has only got worse since the day I purchased it. I am a part time uber driver and I own a mobile cell phone repair business and I am in my running vehicle up to 15 hrs/day. I have researched this issue and there are many threds and blogs online with customers complaining of the same issue. I do not feel I should be responsible for this repair charges has the vehicle was making this noise soon after the purchase and I was not notified. This noise has started to affect me mentally as there is nothing I can do to drown it out. I is also starting to affect the performance of the vehicle. Please help. "takata recall" also, since the purchase of this vehicle I have noticed the ac does not blow cold air when sitting at an idle. I live in Arizona and temperatures can reach 120 degrees. As I mentioned I am in my vehicle up to 15 hrs/day and many of those hours are spent sitting idling while I repair my customers cell phones. When I am sitting in 120 degree heat with barely cool air blowing on me it makes it about 90 degrees in my vehicle which can cause health issues and worst case scenario death. I am at the verge of selling this vehicle, obtaining a lawyer, and filing a complaint or law suit, especially if my health is being affected. Please help.
I was going South on I95 doing 70 miles an hour engine light flashed off and on traction control light on car lost speed and will not shift high rp not speed. Was almost in a very bad accident.
After accelerating from a light at 5mph the gear indicator disappeared and the transmission stuck in 2nd gear verified by revs vs. Vehicle speed. Resulted in very slow acceleration and high revs. Cycling the gear shifter did not resolve issue. Would not even shift to neutral. Issue not resolved until cycling ignition. No check engine light, no indicator lamps. No gear selection indicator on display.
While driving on the freeway my car suddenly lost all acceleration power. It ran 5K rpms to go 55 mph and the traction control light was on and the engine malfunction light was blinking. This has been an ongoing problem for a week and the dealership cannot figure out how to fix it. Sometimes the lights stay on and sometimes they go off even though I continue to have loss of acceleration and ridiculously high rpms to travel 35-55mph.
Have a 2013 Chevy Spark. It has already had an engine replaced at just over 20,000 miles and continues to have the same problems as before the engine was replaced. It continuously goes back and forth to the dealer, yet "no issues or codes" are ever found. To me this car is a potential death trap every time it's driven. It continuously shows the engine light...blinking away...along with the traction control that frequently is on with it. It then revs extremely high and you can't go over 20 miles an hour because of fear the car will explode. It also shakes during all of this. These are all the same problems that the car has had since before the first engine decided to just blow...on a highway...just over 20,000 miles. Please also note that there have been multiple recalls, for this car as well. Cute car...but it ends there. It's a death trap on wheels!! there should be a major recall and class action lawsuit on these cars!
Not even 10,000 miles in I had a tire gets a bubble on the sidewall. The dealership would not cover it or swap it out saying it could have been due to hitting a pothole or curb. 15,000 miles in driving down the highway and hear a loud bang and the ac doesn't work. I take it in and the dealership says I could have hit road debris and would not cover any work on the ac, I would have to pay out of pocket. About a week later I get a letter in the mail about the ac recall and find out my compressor exploded on the inside due to faulty parts. 20,000 miles in and the car was eating a quart of oil every 2-3 days and still draining it and ran rough. The dealership said they have no idea what it is and they would not help in what they called "looking for problems that can't be reproduced". then not even a month later I get a letter about the recall and how I need to bring it in as quick as I can because some people 'may' be experiencing excess oil consumption, due to faulty parts. 40,000 miles in I'm getting the tcs light on with the cel flashing at me and the car stutters and looses power all while on the highway. Gives the code of P0324 (knock control system error). Dealership says it could be due to being driven rough and it is my fault. I shouldn't be driving 80 in a Chevy Spark (the highway speeds in Texas). The engine has a loud lifter tick in the heads. Dealership refuses to open them without a fault code that indicates a head issue. 47,000 miles in I have more misfires and error codes. Taking it back to the dealership to see what their excuse is this time.
Vehicle won't shift out of first gear. Not only is this very dangerous, but it is ruining the engine and transmission of the vehicle. This occurs about once a month at random times, and could very easily cause an accident. The dealer won't do anything to fix the problem, and has been very rude to my wife. I have been a lifelong Chevy guy, but I think I'm finally done. A Toyota or Honda is sounding really good right now!
I was driving down the interstate in rush hour and the engine started to hesitate and the engine light came on. With very sluggish acceleration I was able to make it to the shoulder and then the engine stopped. I was unable to start it and had it towed home. Battery checks out ok and everything is fine as far as I can tell with my trouble shooting but all the reviews I read point to Chevy having problems with the motor seizing on the Chevy Sparks and the motor needing to be replaced. I will be talking to the dealer today, just wondering why there is no recall on this issue yet. If contacted, I will update the NHTSA on this situation. If my 20 yr old daughter who just bought this car 3 months ago had been driving it at the time I'm not sure what the outcome would have been with the motor just stopping on her...very disturbing! thank you
May have been happening before above date but did not realize it....on dashboard there is no indication of which gear I am in(ie P D N R) and car has no pickup even when peddle to floor...when it does start moving it is very, very, very slow....noticed this several times and when it went in for hood latch recall asked them to check....of course they could not duplicate(recall was not done as to lack of parts) still was occurring occasionally.....went back again for recall latch work(done this time 3-11-15) when leaving check engine light was on...was told it was safe to drive, but I showed them the dashboard was not indicating gear...left it with them they R&R park neutral switch which they stated was filled with water.....this was very dangerous to me, at first I could either turn car off and restart to see indicator on dash or run thru the gears, but right before engine light came on I could do none of this/have read about this numerous times on a site call carcomplaints.com.......thank you
The contact owns a 2013 Chevrolet Spark. When the vehicle was started, the engine warning indicator illuminated. The failure occurred each time the vehicle was started. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 29,000.
The contact owns a 2013 Chevrolet Spark. While driving at approximately 5 mph and shifting into first gear, the vehicle started to shutter and attempted to stall. The failure recurred on several occasions. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 15,000.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Tucson, AZ, USA