GM better get there sh*t straight with the "Chevy classics" and there electrical issues or there going to have the pleasure of a Chevy classic getting slammed right in there corn hole. Due to there shity designs and greed I had the chance to experience what it would feel like to be burnt to death in a truck with no way out. 6 months ago started notice interior dash and map lights dimming from breaking, turning and rolling upl windows. Then the world's best engineered gauge cluster ever "extreme sarcasm" started having a twitch fit. Rmps would read past 6000 fuel transmission temp gauge didn't work... probably because GM doesn't know how to even manufacture a real transmission. Speedometer has literally got me pulled over and fined for speeding 4 times for it's retarded reading. Battery letter pegged way past 19 and oil pressure is pegged at 80. Then lucky go me my drivers side seat decided to turn into satins thrown because the control modal for the heater seat would go from low to max without warning and only way to stop it would be to disconect negative battery None of problems that accrued in this pathetic excuse of a "truck" bothered me as much as the last stunt that f*cking truck pulled. Why in the flying f*ck would you GM dipshits run the obd2 and the cig/accessory ports on the same f*cking fuse. There's 6 f*cking empty slots for fuses to be so why not run the extra wires?!?! Your greed and bright ideas almost killed my little girl. Those f*cking wires to the cig lighter port had over heated right after plugging my cell charger in and started a dash fire that has literally melted interneal parts. Your sh*t ass idea of a fuse box is a joke also... my fuse did not do it's job and blow instead the whole fuse completely melted leaving nothing but the 2 prongs still in. Before you open your cock holsters yes the correct size fuse was in. No there was no exposed wires, no there has not nor never been any wires ran or accessories added to the truck. This isn't anyone else fault besides the dumbfucks who let these electrical issues on these trucks not be recalled. What a f*cking joke. I'd better just scrap this piece of sh*t before it tries to kill me or my daughter again. #TEAMCHEVY

The 7 wire pin connector was replaced with GM part# 15862656, @ a cost of $82. You will also need a set of connector pin removal tools made by Pico, to remove the wiring from the non-melted pins in the plastic connector. The Pico pin removal tool part# is 0660PT, it can be found on EBAY for about $14. The 7 wire connector can also be found on EBAY, but it won't be a Delphi OEM part, but it's a lot less expensive. Just use the word "connector", & the GM Part# on the EBAY search, and bunch of sellers will come up. It is futile to attempt to remove a pin connector from around melted plastic, so work on removing the un-affected pins and cut the wires off from the melted ports. On mine I had to do this repair twice. Once because the red wire pin connector overheated, and the second time because the black wire pin connector overheated. I recommend replacing both red & black pin connectors if this is your first repair. The hardest part of this repair is replacing the 4 - 7mm hex head screws holding the trim cover piece in place. A bit of plumbers putty in the socket wrench hole helps holding the screw stable in the socket wrench during reassembly of the trim cover.