Truck runs great 50% of the time. 45% idles low (around 500rpm) and runs a little rough. The other 5% it cant sit at an idle, it will just die. Generally goes away after being parked for about 10-15min. Starting it up a few times after that is normally accompanied the gauges revving up and down while throttling up a little bit, but not at an idle.

Also My truck has only done this three times and it is completely random. I go to start it and it doesn't turn over, after a few tries it acts like the battery has died and not even the electronics work. It has only died on me once while actually moving down the road, and work just fine after sitting for 10-15min or followed by not idling.

It sounds like the anti theft wiring in the steering column may fix all my problems.

Please respond if you can confirm or have any helpful information.

Also My Four wheel drive stopped working around this time as well, and now three months later my heater core goes out and my four wheel drive works again. FML, I want a new truck

Have owned the vehicle 11 years and purchased it new. It will start multiple times with no problems, then for no reason will not start. It's as though it chokes off like the older engines of yesteryear when too much choke was engaged. 2 diagnostics showed nothing. The mechanics said no problem appears to exist. They recommended to drive it more because of the low mileage. Did follow the suggestion and it would react the same way 1 out of 20 starts. Full tanks of gas, high grade fuel, fuel injector cleaner with each fillup, proper starting techniques (not pumping the gas pedal etc.) was practiced. Letting it sit for 10-15 minutes and it starts up. Behavior is consistent for the past 11 years. From Day 1 the battery, the starter, the cables, plugs, etc. are all good. It just has a mind of its own and will never 100% break down. Only just 1 out of 20-25 starts. It just will not start. Cranking over the starter will only wear the battery down. It has to sit for 15 minutes before firing properly. Been doing it consistently for 11 years. It has been the most unreliable vehicle I have ever owned, but have learned to live with it and tolerate it. Have learned not to shut it off between destinations a, b, c and back to a whenever possible. You just flip a coin and wait for it to happen time and time again.

Update from Oct 13, 2011: Truck has 8235 miles. Only drive it 700-800 miles a year. Bought it new. No damage externally or internally within it's history.

The security light either comes on after starting or will come on later after driving it. Most of the time it starts. Fuel pump, spark, filters, lines, starter etc. is in good working order. At unpredictable times, it will turn over but won't start. To keep trying will only run the battery down. Let it sit for 10 minutes and it will fire up and start. When it does not start, just turning the ignition to the on position will make the security light flash in a rapid off and on behavior. Problem has been ongoing for 10 years, since buying vehicle new. Computer analysis shows nothing wrong with the truck.

Update from Oct 25, 2011: Computer was fine. Changed passcode sensor in ignition becase scope showed sensor was malfunctioning, and thus not enabling starting due to security passcode problems. Security light continued to come on after changing passcode sensor. Did not correct the problem. Further research back to Chevy headquarters, showed information which zeroed in on the problem. A wiring, or electrical connection was not solidified. Vehicles manufactured from April, 2000 to November 2000 had a malfunction due to not having a proper soder and thus became loose and resulted in a mis-connection in the wiring to the ignition. The connecting wire was re-sodered. Problem is solved. Starts continually, and no security light comes on.. Chevy did not recall this problem becase it was not safety related. Cole Chevrolet in Pocatello researched the problem, got info from Chevy in Detroit and came to a solution. It was a tough fix, but the end result was a success. Due to the circumstances, no charge was given to the solution being that it was determined that it was a manufacturing problem in 2000. Still had to pay $485 for the passcode sensor which included parts and labor, (which was fair because the sensor was fried). Chevy treated me fairly on this even though I did not buy an extended warranty. The difference was that it was determined that this was a factory flaw. Cole Chevrolet technicians in Pocatello went beyond the call of duty on this one. Chevy did the right thing and stood behind the product. Kudos to Chevy.

484fixed

Update from Oct 27, 2011: To fix the problem of the 2001 chevy s-10, 4.3 Vortec not starting at random times:

1. Separate the turn signal and malfunction switch harness (2) from the 18-way connector. (a) They have a locking tab in the center of each connector that needs to be released.

IMPORTANT: For all vehicles, use either the correct mating terminal, or electrical tool--GM#12094430, (J38125-11A) from the J38125-B Ter4minal Repair kit. Perform a pull test to determine if the terminals have proper tension. If one is found where the tension is suspect, "replace the terminal".

2. Circuit number is 1057, Orange with Black stripe wire, in cavity C4.

3. Circuit # 812, Red with White stripe wire, in cavity C4.

4. Circuit number 1836, Yellow wire, in cavity D3.

5. On the end of the 18-way connector is the date the ignition switch wiring harness was manufactured. This date is etched in the plastic of the connector. It is displayed as two lines of numbers (ie.: GM XXX, XXXX). The bottom row of 4 digits are the 4 digits which must be verified. The following defines the 4 digits:

a. Month (1) Alpha Character (J=January, A=April, O=October, N=November, etc.)

b. Day (2) numbers (1-31)

c.Year (1) Number (9=1999, 0=2000

6. If the date code is less than N080, (November 08, 2000), carefully solder the terminals to the wires in the following connector cavities of the ignition switch "18-way connector". A small drop of solder on each terminal "is all that is required". "Do not allow the soldeer to wick under the insulation of the wires".

7. Circuit # 1057, Orange with Black stripe wire, in captivity C4

8. Circuit #812, Red with White stripes, in cavity C2

9. Circuit #1836, yellow wire, in cavity D3.

10. Done.