Following procedure has worked for over 500 people so far.

I HAVE A WORK AROUND FOR THE PASSKEY/PASSLOCK II or III sensor problem on the vehicles equipped with such. It takes less than 1 minute. PROBLEM: You try to start your car as normal and BAM! SECURITY ALERT- I AINT MOVIN. The security system locks you out of the ignition system and the SECURITY light flashes 3 times. You have 3 choices at this point. 1st yell and scream and literally beat the crap out of yourself until you are a pulp of pissed-off mess. 2nd you can wait 10-11 minutes with the key out of the ignition (ACTUAL minutes, not estimated) then try again hoping it will turn over, to no avail, it happens again forcing a loss of another 10 minutes possibly another 20, of which is very valuable to me. By this time it should start. After re-learning the key's resistor level it better start. Stupid RESISTOR KEYS AND ASSOCIATED SYSTEMS! Best anti-theft device is a colt 45 with laser-aim. 3rd option is take it to the dealer, get told we don't know what the problem is and then be told we have to replace the bcm, ecm, ecu, pcu, pcm, or some other alphabetical based black box somewhere in this hunk of junk, that cost about 50 bucks and 500 in labor cost. You can settle with that or even buy a bypass module that MAY NOT EVEN WORK. With that said, I have a new solution that has taken me from the security light lockout 2-3 times a day to the past 6 months with no occurrance. I had 6 of my friends that had the same problems with their passkey/passlock II and III systems - bending them over and nailing their exhaust pipes before becoming sweet and starting after the reaming- try the same thing I did and it worked for them as well. Out of the 6 only 1 reported having the security system locking them out twice during the past 6 months.

HERE IS WHAT I DID AND HAD MY FRIENDS DO:

If your car has been sitting while you were at work or home or in the store, and you are coming out to leave, follow steps 1-6.

If you just had the SECURITY SYSTEM lock you out of the ignition system, you will have to wait the 10 minutes for it to reset and allow the ignition control module to interact with the system. Once the 10 minutes have passed from the ACTIVE SECURITY STATUS, follow steps 1-6. Do not try to shortcut this as it wont work.

If it is raining, you can close your door, just not all the way. Close it all the way and open the door latch without pushing the door open. This will keep you dry.

+++++STEPS+++++ 1.) OPEN YOUR DRIVERS DOOR AND SIT DOWN. 2.) PLACE KEY IN IGNITION, WAIT FOR CHIME. (3 seconds is what I usually wait) 3.) TURN IGNITION 1 CLICK RIGHT (TO THE ACC POSITION) AND STOP! Do not continue to ON and START yet. WAIT ATLEAST 5 SECONDS 4.) AFTER 5 seconds has passed, TURN KEY TO ON and STOP, DO NOT CONTINUE TO START YET! 5.) WAIT AND WATCH. With your drivers door open, here is what you will see and hear = Your notification will signal DOOR ADJAR, then the BATTERY light, then the SECURITY light, during which you will hear the chime sound as if you just started the car. 6.) AFTER YOU SEE THE SECURITY light switch back to DOOR ADJAR or Battery, and after the CHIME has stopped, you can turn the key to start and voil�!

It has worked every time for me and 5 of my friends. This whole process takes about 20-30 seconds, but it sure as hell beats 30 minutes, as GM refuses to compensate my time lost to their vehicle's design flaws.

RECAP: 1.) Open driver door, sit down 2.) Insert key in ignition, wait for chime 3.) Once chime starts wait 3 seconds 4.) Turn key to ACC position WAIT atleast 5 seconds 5.) After 5 seconds turn key to the ON postion and wait for the security light to switch back to Battery or DOOR adjar, and the chime to stop (Do not try to START if the chime is still sounding) 6.) Once chime stops and Security light has passed, You may now complete the turn to START and it will start.

Note: This is not a permanent workaround, but it will buy you some time, I can almost guarantee it will work for most if not all people, almost all the time.

If you follow these steps and it works, email me at kevintampa5@yahoo.com to let me know your results. If this did not work for you, it may be an actual failure of the system and not just an argument between the key and the car, in which case I wish you the best of luck and hope you get it fixed. I dealt with this problem for 2 years before I tried this method. Worked wonders for me. I am actually on time for work every day now. No thanks to GM, sorry to say. Disappointed in their new products.

Took the car to a gm dealer to fix. Told them the problem was that when the car set in the sun it would not start unless you held the switch on sometimes up to a minute before it would crank over also the same thing would happen had it been running for a few minutes but if you left it where it was cool it would start right up. They replaced the module on the key switch and reprogrammed the passlock system as i was told. Took the car home same problem arose again that evening. Took ot back it is still not fixed. I'm not a rocket scientist but i told them that if you did not shut the ignition all the way off only to accessories it would sart right up again, which told me when you turned it all the way off when you put the key back in it it has a poor connection to the switch from the passlock system and does not read the key instantly as it should. As i see it heat has an affect on this connection. A guy here on the net that calls himself Dr. Zach says to solder the three wires from the passlock system to the switch and it will do away with signal drift from a poor connection which makes sense to me, but don't to GM even though they had a recall for GMC I believe it was 1999 to 2003 that told them to soldrer the wires to the switch when this problem occurred. Does any one else have any better solutions to make this system work.

Thurman