To add to the multiple problems I am having with my Malibu, The back windows do not work. The passenger side back window, I will use my control to try to roll it down. Nothing will happen. Within a minute or two, the window will have completely slid down. The passenger at that window can roll it up a little, but you have to literally PUSH the window back up in place when you are finished. The back driver-side window will not roll down using the master control. I have to reach in the back and use that switch. Fortunately it isn't like the other window that has to be pushed completely back up and made sure it "locks" into place to keep from sliding back down. This is extremely annoying because the heat index in Easten NC gets 100+. The air conditioning does not get cold at all and takes forever make the car bearable. And so I can only roll down 2 windows while I am driving!! Thanks Chevy for causing me to suffocate in the heat!!

Shortly after purchasing this car, my front passenger window stopped functioning. I was leaving work driving out of the guard shack and my window stopped mid way up, and would not respond in anyway even after turning the car off and on and checking the fuses. I then had to drive nearly 60 miles in below 40 degree temps to my home, enough to make a man scream after 16 hours of work. I took my panel off and ran several tests with a voltmeter and an ohm meter. After hours of mapping out the electric system schematics I found that upon running a jumper from the battery to the window motor it rolled up, just from direct juice not with the switch. I still have this window stuck up and the switch in my glove box. Shortly after this I had the exact same thing happen to my drivers window, but lucky me its only when it feels like it, there is no correlation to weather.

The original owner was an 86 year old guy who told me that one of the back windows went out and the dealer fixed the issue, BS. I believe this is also the root of the issue for most turn signal problems reported.

The relay box takes direct current from your battery and distributes it when called upon to various components...such as windows, turn signals, fuel pressure sensors - regulators etc. I believe that the only fix for this serious problem is the replacement of the entire relay. Which even with a good deal of car knowledge should be taken care of with a certified mechanic. Unless by this point you are willing to steal your own car and burn it for the insurance, then by all means tackle it on your own. Most local auto parts stores can order this box for about $100. Shame on GM for destroying the American car market, I want to buy American made; but when there all about screwing the populous to make an extra buck..... I am going back to Toyota or Subaru. I have never had a remote problem with these cars, just basic maintenance and a timing belt @ 200,000 miles. F GM.

In August of 2006, my rear drivers side window broke, which may be the window regulator inside the door. I heard something break inside the door, so now the window will not go up. I have my window covered in plastic inside and out. At the time that it broke, I had simultaneously depressed the lock out button and the button for lowering and raising the rear drivers side window, when I heard something come apart inside the window door. I was having a little problem with the lock out button and the other windows not working at this same time. I did not really know what the lock out button was for at the time. I think this is a default with the lock out button and the window buttons being depressed simultaneously. I think this

should be a recall by GM. Since, all of a sudden I have a window regulator go out!!!!! This really sucks!!!