I own a 2000 Impala LS, purchased new in June of 1999. This is the second power window switch I have had to replace. I can't remember when I replaced the first one, but it was not covered by the warranty. It is quite obvious GM has a problem with this Master Window Switch and they really don't care. I went to a Chevy Dealer parts dept. to find out how expensive one of these master switches would cost - $198.00. I went on line and just bought one for $49.00 And you wonder why GM is in bankruptcy and Toyota is kicking their ass? If you find yourself in this situation with a bad power window switch, don't go back to the dealer, you will only get ripped off.

back in january my drivers side window quit qorkin properly. it would roll dwn but didnt wanna roll up. i waited lil bit an gradually got window up by pressin button really hard an pullin the button backwards at same time. one day i jabbed it wit screw driver to get it up bc it was pourin dwn rain. so i just didnt roll that window dwn no more. then i 4got bout it driving thru the bank and rolled it all way dwn. this was march 13th. of course it was freakin rainin that day an all weekend!!!! i had to tape garbage bags on my window. took door panel off, played wit the wires, somehow i amazingly got it to go up after shockin myself few times. now tryin to find a cheap replacement switch!! and the passenger side is starting to do the same thing!!!

The driver window would not go up and I replaced the switch, then 3 weeks later I come outside in the pouring rain to find my D#$% window had fallen down into the door. I took the door panel off and found that the window regulator took a sh#% and was in pieces. I had to rig the window to stay up. I went searching for the part to find that it cost $135 and who knows what to put it in. The car runs great except that it doesn't want to crank, I can't roll down my window, and the blinkers don't work half the time, they just wanna buzz.

It seems to be a common occurrence for the power windows in a GM made vehicle to go bad. This has to be a sh*tty manufacturing flaw perhaps on purpose to cost the consumer 3 to $400 at a time to fix.First I have a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GT that the passenger side windows just stopped working that is front and back may I add all within 3 mo. Now my 2000 Impala the driver side window switch stopped working. Had to replace that $90. Couldn't have been one of the other ones for $20. Now today I get out at work and shut my door, comeback to get in the car after work what do we have my window is all the way down. So i go home take the door apart and the damn thing has came apart completely on the inside.The cable is just hanging and a part was just laying inside the frame. AWESOME!!!!!!!!!

My car is presently 8 years old, it has 69,677 miles on it. It is not a hard driven car. The first window to go was the driver's window. Went out to the parking lot and lo and behold...no window. It was down into the door. The whole door had to be taken apart and a new window motor mechanism had to be replaced. $500. Now, fast forward to 2007/2008. In the space of 3 months the other 3 windows did the same thing. Now $2000 later, I am thinking this is definitely a design flaw. I spoke with GM. They claim they have gotten no complaints about this. I find it very hard to believe. They finally agreed to reimburse me the cost of the parts. I guess that is better than nothing, but I still maintain that this is not a normal event. I have owned many a car in my day, and I never had this happen, never mind four out of four windows!!! Guess I am just blessed that there are only four.

Apparently the driver's side multi switch is a common problem. Everybody sells replacement switches. I suggest buying an after market switch since OEM Delco switch went bad from crummy manufacting. I was in a bind and Auto Zone normally had the switch in stock for $89.00.(they must sell a lot of these switches to keep them in stock). Replacement was a breeze, two star head screws in the inside door grip and the entire switch assembly comes off. Pop off the wires using a small flat head screw driver, pop off the old switch and snap in the new one. If you have time, shop for a new switch on-line...save $10.00 or $20.00 buck. Good Luck

The windows are horrible! In May of 2006 my sister was in the drivers seat and closed the door and the window fall completely off it's track. It cost me $360 to fix it. Then again in Sept. 2006 the back left window motor went out and that coast me $400 dollars. Now just today, 11/8/2007 my passenger front window fell right through the crack when my boyfriend closed his door. This has to be Chevy mis function. All of the window are going out and it always cost $350-$400 to fix it. I think there should be a recall on these impala windows.

Nothing better than pulling to the drive up and having to complete your transaction via the rear driver side window - looks really classy! My driver window goes down no problem (sometimes it makes a really creaky noise however) but getting the bitch back up can really suck. I've read another solution on here to remove the switch assembly and bend the contact back out so that when the switch is pressed it actually does contact. I hope like hell that works! I've had some luck pushing the switch forward and then pulling it backward like towards my elbow... if you can apply about 1000 pounds of pressure the thing might go up in 2-5 inch spurts or if you get lucky go all the way up... Once it starts moving... don't move you finger at all... good luck!

The driver's window switch on my 2000 Impala (100k miles) would move window down but not up. A friend and I took apart the driver's side switch pack and found extreme charring on the silver contact under the metal rocker strip.

Using contact cleaner uncovered a nearly welded away contact. We put an extra bend in the metal rocker strip so the switch pressed it into the contact and it works fine now.

We found failure, and the most charring, in the most used switch (driver's) and almost pristine contacts in the rarely used rear window switches. Obviously, there is a design or material flaw at work here.

We concluded the rocker strip was designed or produced with an incorrect bend which caused it to just about meet the contact point, arcing with each push of the switch. (And I thought I didn't own a welder!)

One needs only a few handtools, contact cleaner, and some patience and the switch can be made good as old in an hour or two. Much more better than spending $100 or more for a new switch.