My 2000 impala ac or heater wouldn't work unless it was on 5 all the damn time, and by the time the car would either cool off or heat up it was 30 to 40 minutes later.
The first blower resistor was corroded due to a leaky gasket between the hood and the cowl. The blower resistor failed 3 years later for reasons yet unknown (either another "slight" leak or a poor quality part). Will repair again soon. If you have ever had water on the front passenger floor after a rainstorm, do a search for the leaky gasket. I used the old gasket and glued it in place with RTV gasket in a tube.
When I turn on the heat or Ac I have to turn it on #5 for it to work. Number 1, 2, 3, 4 dont work at all. It also makes alot of noise when you turn it off and on. It is embarrassing when you have people in your car and they ask for you to turn it on. I cant even talk to anyone while its on.
The fan motor didn't work on settings 1 and 2. I did research on THIS website and found out that this resistor was probably the culprit. After cruising through "AutoMD" site, I was convinced I could do the work myself. Bought the part at a local parts store. You can move the passengers seat all the way back, crawl in on your back and see the access panel under the glove box. It comes out with two snap clips and a corrugated plastic plug that you need to pull out. Do it carefully and you can re-use it. The resistor is located right behind the blower fan motor and to the drivers side just a bit. I found it easier to get to the resistor by pulling the blower fan housing. 3 screws and unplug the air intake. The air intake had a rubber strap attached to it that wraps around the motor to hold it secure. Don't break it. This is the only thing holding that air hose on there!! I had to use my razor knife and cut a bit if the floor sound insulation away to even SEE one of the back screws on the resistor. This also made it easier to get my short socket extension up there to loosen the screws in back. There are two screws in the back... one in the front. I left the 2 back screws just loose and didn't take them out, as I could see I would never get them back in if they came out all the way. The unit allows you to slip it off the back screws anyway. Put the new unit in... tighten the screws up, plug everything back in, and your good to go. Took me just over an hour for the whole job. And NO mechanic charges......cool.!! How long this will work.......??? Hopefully till I don't own the car anymore.
About two months ago I took it to the dealer in town and they replaced the switch on the dash . That worked for a while but I am still having the problem that the fan motor will not come on at all. But prior to me taking it to the dealer I had replaced the fan motor and the resistor twice once with a part from a local parts dealer and second from the dealer and then that's when I took it to the dealer and they replaced the switch cluster for 500.00. And now some times it works and some times not. The original problem was the fan would not work on setting no. two.Then that's when I started with the resistors.
I have no response from settings one through four, and even on five there isn't much control. I had the problem first at around 60,000 miles, replaced the A/C Controller Module (the actual part with the control switches, etc...) for about $80 on parts (I did the work myself, the job is simple, just google a forum and someone will have the step-by-step instructions). and that lasted for 4 years and I have the same problem again, I'm going to try just switching out the blower motor resistor, which I am confident will work.
The air conditioner still blows out cold air. However, the air just slowly seeps out of all the top vents, the window vents, and the floor. I am unable to control where the air comes out. You turn the control switch and nothing happens. This really sucks in 100 degree Arkansas heat and humidity. It takes an unreasonable amount of time for the inside of the car to reach a level that can be considered cool.
The air will not blow on settings one thru four. It will only blow on five (high). You can't change where it blows from either. It appears to be stuck on defrost? Needless to say in 100 degree weather you're are roasting.
during the winter, snowy, icy time of the year, my heater decides to only work on 5. which is the highest. which considerin it was cold wasnt that horrible except when it was freezin outside i couldn't turn the heater dwn. it dnt even blow hot air like it use to. tried different things still no solution
I feel this should be a recall, and I should not have to pay to get it fixed..I feel if more then One person has the problem it should be looked at my the manufacture.. I know im not the only one who has this problem and I feel Chevrolet should step up and get the job done..
Just another of the many little annoying issues I am having with my Impala. The switch for the fan in the AC/Heat control only works on the highest setting for some reason. It is a constant game of controlling the temperature to get it to the perfect level while it is blowing it at you at full blast. I don't understand how 4 out of 5 clicks on a knob can not work.
While on Christmas vacation out of state, my blower ceased to function on levels 1-4. I was stuck with only off, or 5. I'm about to order a new dual climate control assembly and see if that works.
Blower switch doesn't work on settings 1-4. Only level 5 works. The other 2 times settings 1-3 didn't work. This has caused me from $260 - $290 a pop. Does GM get a copy of this. Is there ever any resolution?
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
My 2000 impala ac or heater wouldn't work unless it was on 5 all the damn time, and by the time the car would either cool off or heat up it was 30 to 40 minutes later.
- Tabitha G., Hazleton, PA, US