The Electrical system is not so dead yet, The car won't start, but all the dashboard lights show up and work properly. However, there is no signal to the relaying system or activation of the ECU, and the problem is in the electrical ignition system. The car parked in the Park wouldn't let me remove the vehicle from the Ignition. I had to tow it. The battery is brand new. I turned on the Headlights, and it was very bright.
Try to start the vehicle, and nothing. 2-3 days later tried starting the car with my spare key and jumping the battery to rule out the problems with the key or the battery.
Is it a corrosion problem on the batteries? We even tried jumping the car from another vehicle, and it wouldn't even click. I was trying to start. This has happened multiple times over the last year. Good battery, good connection good solenoid, yet the car won't start.
I opened the fuse panel underneath the steering column and removed the fuse for the ignition starter. I Checked and replaced the metal strip in the fuse, but it is not damaged or broken.
Someone suggested sitting in the car with keys NOT in the Ignition but having someone else open and close all the doors 3-4 times and do this with the ignition key. I did that, but the car won't start.
Just put in a used ENGINE with 78k miles for $3k. I had a blowout motor. And now it's not running. Every time you fix one thing, something else seems wrong. The heater resistor went bad, replaced, it now the blower motor is bad. Terrible omen, or this car isn't worth it. No cars last more than 150k miles anymore. Even if you take good care of them.
Ignition Switch Replacement ($42) or Control Body Module ($500) were suggested as possible remedies, and already spent $300 diagnosing the problem.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
The Electrical system is not so dead yet, The car won't start, but all the dashboard lights show up and work properly. However, there is no signal to the relaying system or activation of the ECU, and the problem is in the electrical ignition system. The car parked in the Park wouldn't let me remove the vehicle from the Ignition. I had to tow it. The battery is brand new. I turned on the Headlights, and it was very bright.
Try to start the vehicle, and nothing. 2-3 days later tried starting the car with my spare key and jumping the battery to rule out the problems with the key or the battery.
Is it a corrosion problem on the batteries? We even tried jumping the car from another vehicle, and it wouldn't even click. I was trying to start. This has happened multiple times over the last year. Good battery, good connection good solenoid, yet the car won't start. I opened the fuse panel underneath the steering column and removed the fuse for the ignition starter. I Checked and replaced the metal strip in the fuse, but it is not damaged or broken.
Someone suggested sitting in the car with keys NOT in the Ignition but having someone else open and close all the doors 3-4 times and do this with the ignition key. I did that, but the car won't start.
Just put in a used ENGINE with 78k miles for $3k. I had a blowout motor. And now it's not running. Every time you fix one thing, something else seems wrong. The heater resistor went bad, replaced, it now the blower motor is bad. Terrible omen, or this car isn't worth it. No cars last more than 150k miles anymore. Even if you take good care of them.
Ignition Switch Replacement ($42) or Control Body Module ($500) were suggested as possible remedies, and already spent $300 diagnosing the problem.
Youtube videos aren't much help either.
- KUNAL H., Houston, TX, US