This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
My key continuously are stuck in the ignition when trying to exit. I have had to sit in my car for an hour. After constant attempts, I was finally able to remove them. Have tried wd -40, not changes. Once my son had to remove the front panel and unscrew parts in order to remove the key. The problem began late December and continues to date. Vehicle stationary.
8 months ago I replaced 2 sensors on the car and now the same 2 sensors are bad. Prevents vehicle from going into park and the key from coming out of the ignition.
Ignition, when driving and after parking could not remove the key. No matter what I was trying to do could not remove the key, had to drive off again many times and stop and try remove the key. After a while and this being a major safety hazard I turned over to have it fixed at scott auto repair. Cost me $689.90 and expect to be refund by the manufacturer as this is a defect since have only 19662 miles on the speed meter of the car
- Houston, TX, USA
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Key sticks in the ignition after putting the car in park and trying to shut if off. I have to restart, move the gearshift back and forth then try to turn off multiple times before I'm able to get the key to release. So far this is only happening when I am parking the car. I have found instances of the ignition turning off while the car is being driven resulting in crashs and/or deaths. Purchased in Aug 2016. Victory Chevy in petaluma, ca has replaced the park lock solenoid twice but key still sticks in ignition. This is a huge safety concern since 50+ people have died with cars having this same problem. I don't want to be a statistic.
We bought the 2014 capativa and drove it for about a month. When you would back up it would make a grinding noise. Then in a few days you couldn't hardly hold it in the road like you had a tire coming off. We were on the highway and if you got over 50 miles a hour took both hands to hold it in the road. If you got under 50 and stayed you could hold it in the road. Took it to the dealer and they checked it out and found both roaters in front was worped and had been put on that way from factory. The would not do anything about it and the car was still under warentery. I had to go buy both front roaters and pay for having them replaced. The machinace told us if we hadn't of went ahead and changed them when we did they could of locked up or the whole wheel and all came of going down the road. This could of cause a bad wreack. The car only had 3600 miles on it when it started making the noise were we could hear it. My point is if you buy something and it is still under warenaty they should of fixed this problem and paid for it not me.it coast us $400 for roators and then another $350 for the labor not counting the $500 for the tires that it had wore in places that was not fit to have on the car. They could of blowed out or anything and caused us to wreack. This dealer didn't even act like they were concorened about it at all. I have talked to 10 or 12 people that owns a capativa 2014 and they have had to do same thing. I thing the company should check in to this and pay the owners of these vechiels the money they are our for buying a SUV that has this problem and they would not stand up to the wareantey like they are suppose to. I love Chevy but if they not going to stand behind their vehicles when you have a problem I guess I will have to start driving a Ford.
The air gets hot when sitting still. The air even on high will barely work at times. When switched on just the tip face vents, it becomes stuck blowing only on feet for days at a time.
While driving I was suddenly overcome by a noxious odor which caused burning in my eyes, nose and throat. I turned off my A/C and opened my windows which helped dilute the odor. By chance I lifted my driver-side visor and a loud clicking occurred. I repeated this to try to figure out what was wrong, then when I grasped the rod that the visor slides on my fingers were burned and blistered.because it was so hot. The cabin lights flicker and the headlights do as well. The ceiling area by the visor becomes very hot to the touch. When the car is off, it begins to cool. I think this has been coming on for a while because of the flickering, but I had no idea that it might all be related. By the way, I had my car less than 9 months when the battery died. Odd for a 2014 vehicle.
On July 9, 2015 at approximately 4pm I noticed what appeared to be (cold) frost blowing from the inside vents of my vehicle, and as I looked at the temp. Gauge I noticed it was going up in the 200S so I immediately turned on my heat too reduced the temp., because I thought th vehicle was over heating. But after awhile I notied the temp was not going down so I switched ti the ac, and immediately the temp. Began to go down back to normal, which is 181 on average. I'm not sure what this means, as I did have coolant in the overflow tank. I took the vehicle in for an oil change and mentioned this issue to the service person and they stated something about the ac compressor, which I did not understand. So I've been running my ac whenever the temp gauge goes up. To this day I still don't know why this is happening.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Richmond, OH, USA