I contacted GM Headquarters today about my 2014 Chevy Captiva LT and the key sticking in the ignition. They said , if the warranty has run out it would be an out of pocket expense for me. I told them that numerous other Captivas had the same problem, but there was never a recall issued. I told them that my family always had Chevys and that I was very disappointed that they could not resolve the issue. They said they don't rely on internet complaints and I said , they should. It just pisses me off that they won't take responsibility for a defect in the car. I love my Captiva. I really do.

As it has happened to others, the key gets stuck often. I can press the shifter button and it will click and release but it is only getting worse and I can't sit 3 hrs waiting for it to release. I did take it to dealership but they want to go step by step to see what issue it is and none of it is covered by warranty so I'd have to pay till they figure it out. $1,250 later and a lot of could be's with the last one being it could be the bcm(?) bsm(?) that sends the signal to the computer that you are parked. Of course GM isn't dealing with a sh*tty made vehicle, so of course it isn't a recall. I'm about ready to be done with the truck and Chevy for that matter!!!

Every time I put my car in park and turn the car off, my key remains stuck in the ignition. I have to sit there and wait causing me to be late to work, etc. I have even had to leave the key in the ignition to run into work to clock in so I would not be late. This is a major issue that GM should be responsible for. So I have read, this is a very common complaint for the Chevy Captiva's. I am very unhappy with this issue as it causes a huge amount of annoyance. It occurs daily, about 95% of the time when turning my car off. I have to keep turning my car off and back on again, shifting the car back to reverse and drive, waiting for it to click and release the key. To me, if GM really cared about their customers, they would help this issue asap. This should not be an out of pocket expense for car buyers whatsoever!!!!

I CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE SUV AFTER TURNING THE VEHICLE OFF. THIS STARTED ABOUT TWO MONTHS AGO. AT FIRST I WAS ABLE TO TURN THE SUV BACK ON AND WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY. IT HAS BEEN WORSE LATELY. AS I FILLED OUT A COMPLAINT TO NHTSA, THE KEY WAS STILL STUCK IN THE IGNITION. SO IF ANYONE WOULD LIKE TO STEAL MY CAR, THEY COULD.

THE SUV JUST TURNED 56000 MILES. GM NEED TO FIX THIS, AS THIS HAS BEEN A PROBLEM NOT ONLY WITH THE CAPTIVA, BUT OTHER GM MODELS AS WELL. I HAVE HAD TO SIT IN MY CAR FOR ALMOST AN HOUR BEFORE THE KEY COULD BE REMOVED. HAD I KNOWN THAT THIS WAS A COMMON PROBLEM, I WOULD NOT HAVE PURCHASED A GM VEHICLE. THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL.

I SPOKE TO A CUSTOMER SUPPORT REP FROM GM, AND OF COURSE THEY DENIED THE FACT THAT THERE WAS AN ISSUE CAUSED BY THEM. I TOLD HER TO GO ONLINE AND GOOGLE, "KEY STUCK IN IGNITION-CHEVROLET CAPTIVA TO SEE HOW MANY COMPLAINTS ARE OUT THERE FOR THE VERY SAME PROBLEM. I ALSO TOLD HER TO LOOK AT THE COMPLAINTS ON THE NHTSA WEBSITE.

IT COST ME $851.00 TO HAVE THE SUV REPAIRED. THE DEALER, ELKINS CHEVROLET IN MARLTON, NJ AT FIRST SAID IT WAS MY AFTERMARKET ALARM THAT WAS CAUSING THE ISSUE AFTER THEY DIAGNOSED THE SUV. I TOLD THEM I DIDN'T HAVE A AFTERMARKET ALARM, BUT I DO HAVE A AFTERMARKET REMOTE START. BOTTOM LINE WAS THAT IT WAS A "PARK MICRO SWITCH IN THE SHIFTER FAILING-SPRING IN SHIFTER WORN OUT AND NOT ENGAGING. SHIFTER ASSEMBLY REQUIRES REPLACEMENT.

OF COURSE THE CUSTOMER SUPPORT PERSON TRIED TO OFFER ME A $100.00 CERTIFICATE TO BE USED AT A DEALER. I TOLD HER WHAT SHE COULD DO WITH IT. I HAVE BEEN PURCHASING GM BRAND CARS SINCE I WAS 18 YEARS OLD. I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER ONE AFTER THIS.

I KNOW USING ALL CAPS IS SCREAMING, BUT THAT'S EXACTLY HOW I FEEL ABOUT THIS...

When the car is stopped and turned off, the key cannot be moved to the off position. It is as if the transmission is not in park. I have been able to make the ignition switch work properly by restarting the engine, backing up slightly, then moving forward, and putting the car back in park. I have seen complaints of this problem from others. I actually have two of these 2014 Captivas and they both have this as an intermittent problem. One vehicle has about 22,000 miles and the other has about 46,000 miles on it. They are definitely not old high mileage vehicles. It appears to be a defective part that needs to be addressed and corrected by GM. If the key cannot be removed, it becomes a simple target for car theft.

Update from Apr 16, 2018: Problem caused by a weak spring in the shifter. When placed in park, this spring pushes up on a tab on a micro switch which, when closed, sends a signal to the body control module (computer) to tell the system to release the key. Bending this tab down may allow the weak spring to be able to exert enough force to lift the tab to close the switch. This has worked on one of my vehicles (After a couple of tries). The other solution is to cut the two wires from the switch and tie them together, bypassing the switch. This, of course, would allow the key to be removed with the vehicle in gear, which is not the recommended solution (but it will work).

Took to local dealer, charged 47 plus dollars. They said it requires a new shifting mechanism for 365 dollars plus labor. The said it was fairly common when I questioned the diagnosis, that the celiniod wasn't working properly. The car has 38000 miles and this has happened several times already.

I see several people with 2012 Captiva so have had the same problem reported on this site. I am wondering if GM has improved the shifter that will replace my old one or if I will have to buy another shifter in 38000 more miles. Will the problem reoccur every 38000 miles or so? It would seem that there is a flaw in the design. I mean at least if the acc part of the switch was after the off part of the switch you could at least shut your car off and lock it up with out draining your battery. That's the way ignition switches used to be, why the change?

I do believe this will be my last GM product if you can't even depend on the key coming out of the switch! You would think it would last a lot longer than 38000 miles or 3 years. I have a 1987 model suburban 3/4 ton that I still drive occasionally with a lot of miles and have never had any problem with the switch. Very frustrating when you are at work and your wife calls you with a problem like this!