This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
Key will lock in ignition and vehicle will not start. Happens intermittently. Battery is fine, alternator is fine, dealership replaced ignition when purchased which helped for about a year, but the problem continues to become more frequent. Rattling the battery fixes the problem, but only temporarily.
Continus electric drop causing different systems to lose power, fail, or temporarly disable including but not limited to traction control, emergency break, radio and lights. After researching the problem in various forums I noted many owners facing the same problem over various years with no clear solution.
UNKNOWN, several times between my husband or myself while driving down the road and on the interstate, the vehicle would just completely shut off no lights, no brakes no nothing. We purchased the vehicle used so we thought that it had something to do with some minor maintenance but this first occurred only after having the vehicle for two weeks. We've taken the vehicle back to where we purchased it, they could not find any issues with the vehicle and taken it to other locations with no luck on solving issue. The vehicle does not give any signs or warning when it will shut down while drive. Here recently when using the turn signals, switching on high beams, or even turning on the radio causes the vehicle shut down.
The contact owns a 2013 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the chassis control module needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. Neither the dealer nor the manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.
During the last week of May 2019 radio turning on/off intermittently - thought it was issue with radio station, but on-line Chevy forums indicate it is a sign of larger electrical issues. June 1, 2019, entering vehicle after dinner out, interior lights were flickering; driving at highway speed at night with ac & cruise control on there was a sudden noxious odor irritating to eyes, nose, and throat (2 people ill); headlights flickering; opened windows to ventilate; made it home (~12 miles); all lights - exterior and interior - still flickering upon arrival home; still a strong noxious odor - stronger on interior driver side of vehicle; internet search of symptoms indicated driver visor might be extremely hot - went out to check and it was very hot - even after sitting while we did internet search; further internet search indicates many Chevy Captiva owners complaining of similar problems; forums indicate known battery cables voltage drop issue leading to expensive repairs (~$1000) not covered under recall, so we disconnected battery overnight until we could check things in the daylight. 6/2/19 - after leaving vehicle battery disconnected overnight, reconnected and driver visor immediately got warm to touch - car not even cranked, just sitting in the shady driveway with the battery connected. Shifted visor down and there was a loud pop/click noise. Visor would not fully return to stowed position. Disconnected battery again. Not a safe situation with overheating visor, noxious fumes, and fluttering lights. Chevy forums indicate this has been a know issue since 2012, but dealerships will only assist while car is still in original purchase warranty period. Forums indicate this was a recall in europe/great britain, but not here in usa. Ridiculous. An american company not taking care of its american customers... for years... multiple year models reporting same issues.
- Chapin, SC, USA
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The contact owns a 2013 Chevrolet captivia. The contact stated that the key was unable to eject from the ignition switch. The contact had to park the vehicle, engage the brake, and turn the steering wheel to remove the key from the ignition. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing. The manufacturer was not contacted. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 100,000.
The battery cables are defective causing a short. Car worn start sometimes or battery skips or turns off been happening for a couple years. There are other complaints on the internet about the faulty cable connector. They tried a new one for these cars. It happens a couple times a month the last time I used in the date box.
While driving my Chevy Captiva on the freeway the vehicle shutoff unexpectedly and I was almost involved in a car accident with my pregnant wife. On other occasions while driving the same thing happened. I have taken it to shops to get it looked at and they can't seem to get to the problem. The check engine light comes on then turns off. I am worried that this vehicle will cause my death. I called GM but they can't seem to give me a straight answer and want to charge me for something that they didn't built correctly. I have seen multiple post of the same threat online of the vehicle doing the exact same thing and GM is not taking the matter seriously.
Car has stalled out 7 times in a month. Dealer ship cant find what the problem is have towed it 7 times. The car stall with no warning or light. Call GM they cant do anything. Car stalled while driving this is unsafe
The contact owns a 2013 Chevrolet Captiva. On several occasions, the vehicle failed to start. The contact also stated that it was difficult to remove the key from the ignition. Furthermore, while driving over rugged terrain, several warning indicators, including the parking brake and coolant became illuminated. The contact was concerned that the failure was due to an electrical fault. On several occasions when the vehicle failed to start, the contact's spouse tapped the fuse panel and the vehicle started and function as intended. The contact was then able to remove the key from the ignition. The vehicle was not taken to be diagnosed or repaired. The contact stated that the failures were intermittent. The dealer was not notified. The manufacturer was notified of the failures. The approximate failure mileage was 112,000.
The contact owns a 2013 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated that the key became stuck in the acc position and the vehicle would not turn off. The contact had to call triple aaa to have the battery disconnected to shut off the vehicle. The following day, the vehicle was taken to the dealer (weseloh Chevrolet, 5335 paseo del norte, carlsbad, ca 92008, (760) 208-1943). The dealer stated that there was no recall on the vehicle and the contact paid for the repairs. The diagnosis of the failure was unknown. The manufacturer also stated that the vehicle was not covered by a recall and provided case number: 8-4215205113. The failure mileage was 100,700.
Key gets stuck in the ignition and the battery dies completely. I cannot lock or unlock my car. Hazards won't turn on. Only happens occasionally, but it's been more frequent and lasts longer. I used to be able just to turn the car back on to get the key out, but now it doesn't even try to turn. It's like the battery is dead, but I got it checked and it's fine. It happens as I turn the car off or on. It is always in park.
Acceleration: Hestitates when pressing the gas, has gone on since I took ownership did not realize it was a problem until others started mentioning it.
While driving my Captiva from work to home (approx. 26 miles) the warning lights on the dash light up and it indicates service traction control. It will do this at least three times on the way home however when take it to weseloh Chevy in carlsbad they state no codes. On at least four times when I shut the car off there is no power, no lights, no nothing its like the battery is dead when its not. It happened at the dealership when they asked me to pick it up after finding no issues. This last issue I was able to get it started by aaa and weseloh had my car for over a week burnt thru half a tank of gas found nothing, however I drove it the next day from work and it happened again warning lights on service traction control.
Vehicle stationary in park the key won't come out of the ignition. The other issue is the defrost vent heat sometimes blows cold for a few hours. It seems to get stuck on defrost and it won't close the door over to the other vents. It seems that it could be a program issue. The switches seem to work it will heat up. Noticed it does it a lot on windy cold nights then in the morning it won't work for a few hours. Please help! safety issues if you can't see outside the window when blowing cold air.
Over a year ago aaa installed a new battery when my car wouldn't start. Since that time there have been several times when I had to call aaa to come out as the car would not start....each time that cleaned and greased the terminals. Now it is happening more freguently. On Sunday...while waiting for aaa I checked and it started up again all on its own. So not even sure it is the termials after all....I am becoming afraid to drive this vehicle. I car was always in a parked position. I have over 60,000 miles.
Takaya recall...driver seat belt is unraveling, gas fumes comes throught vent when on freeway or streets even with vents are closed when turning the tire rubs against the vehicle tire area other issues with engine grinding to pick up speed and poor power bought to batteries.
While I was driving to work on the highway my car caught on fire through the left passenger door speaker. I pulled over and got stuck in the flaming car because the seat belts would not release. After a while I was able to get out, and call the fire station they came and out the fire; they said the wire that connects to the speaker was the main causes of the fire. I took the car to the dealership and they claimed nothing was wrong with it, it just happened. Now I'm stuck with a car that I'm afraid to drive because my life is not only at risk of a car accident but now also an unknown cause of another potentially fire.
The air bag light came on and I took it to the dealer and a part has gone bad. This vehicle isn't that old for parts to go bad since airbags systems are good for a long time. I've seen others have had problems with the airbags and this should be investigated because airbags are the most important thing in a family vehicle. Also just like the others, I've had issues with my radio and lightening in the inside. The radio goes on and off and the lights keep dimming then going bright again. All of this occurs regardless if I'm moving or parked. The air bag light has been coming and going since last year.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- Pendleton, OR, USA