Bought a 2001 Blazer, 4Dr, LT, v6 vortex engine, 95,000 miles. Purchased about 2 years ago from an older couple who were the original owner. Dealership sales paperwork still in glove box, they paid over 30k in 2001.
Here is the breakdown of what I have had to replace:
The first thing my mechanic told me was, the Dex Cool must go and be replaced with UNIVERSAL, not regular antifreeze. Dex Cool has a very bad reputation among mechanics I learned.
Well, when we flushed the radiator, we discovered the radiator was shot. Replaced with new radiator, new radiator cap (factory one is junk).
I started smelling coolant when I put on the heat, and would get a leak under the front when I turned the engine off.
Had a Pressure Test done. Diagnosis: Upper Intake Seal needs replaced. I paid to have the seal replaced, it's about a $800 job. Still leaks. Replaced water pump, thought it may be seeping with about 100k on the original can't hurt, another $400. Still leaking. Pressure test done again at a different shop. Diagnosis: Lower Intake Seal, had to have both Upper and lower done again, another $1000 job. Still leaking!!!!
Lets see I have replaced the Radiator, Thermostat, Upper Intake Gasket, Lower Intake Gasket, Water Pump, and still a F*!!! Leak!!!
Finally had to have the dash and front driver seal completely taken out, just to replace the heater core a $40 part, but another $800 in most shops. Finally the leak is fixed!!
Let me say I have NEVER owned ANY vehicle that has caused me this much grief at only 100k miles. Now that's just the cooling system. Let's keep going. Engine light on, Diagnosis: Vacuum lines rotted under the hood and multiple sensors failed. Replaced Vacuum lines, less than $50. Multiple sensors $400. Fixed.
Well now the JUNK ABS system they put on these. ABS lights on. Was told the bearings have a sensor on them that fails and to replace. Replaced front wheel bearings and new sensors, $400. ABS and brake lights still on. Took to shop and was told the entire ABS unit is BAD. $800 to replace. Keep in mind this is local shop pricing, the Dealership cost to have these repairs would be much much higher. I have not replaced ABS unit yet, lights still on.....
The fuel lines and the brake lines had to be repaired both were rusted and started leaking. $400.
Rear end started to squeak. Rotors and pads were shot. Replaced everything with lifetime parts. $500. Still squeaked. Found out, calipers on both sides were not releasing completely. Had to replace calipers both sides $400 most shops. Mileage increased to 12 MPG, now that rear end was not dragging.
Heat would not switch to floor, only would come out the defrost and vents. Diagnosis: Actuator door control $400 job BUT when the mechanic went to put the Actuator on he discovered the Actuator was working BUT the internal plastic heater door in the heater box had failed. He was able to reach up the heater vent and set the door back open to floor and now this works, but he still says if i want it fixed right he has to take out the heater box and replace broken flapper. $500.
Driver window motor went out $200 to replace. Power mirror switch failed, no power mirrors $100 for new switch. Drivers seat handle broke off, cheap ass Chevy plastic. No fix for this, but replace the seat.$1000. Now I use a vice grips to move the seat around. Rear hatch switch not working, had to replace the entire unit. $200. Half the lights are out on factory radio.
Running rough, new battery, tune-up new wires etc another $300.
Vehicle would pull to the left. Took to alignment shop, told me both ball joints upper and lower on both sides were bad as well as the center link. Another $1000 alignment included. gee thanks.
At just 100k miles, the cost for repairs has been staggering....
The poor quality, faulty parts, junk electronics, even the very fluid they use to cool this JUNK is corrosive to the seals and coolant system and costs $27 a gallon in the parts store. NOOOOOOO!!
I also own a Jeep Wrangler and thought the repairs on that were bad. You know JUST EMPTY EVERY POCKET is what Jeep stands for and mine, has lived up to that reputation.
I own a Honda Civic and at 200k it's my most reliable vehicle, the only think major was the head gasket, which was a factory flaw that year. After I replaced that, and had the heads machined, still going strong. It's been the best of the three in repairs and drives the best.
I have to say, after all this, I have lost all faith and confidence in Chevy products. I recently went in to buy tires and a guy was complaining about his brand new Camaro, told me it was total junk and he had a long list of repairs already. Dealer was not backing the product, he was livid and said he would never buy another Chevy product again. I believed it. I won't either...
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
Here goes:
Bought a 2001 Blazer, 4Dr, LT, v6 vortex engine, 95,000 miles. Purchased about 2 years ago from an older couple who were the original owner. Dealership sales paperwork still in glove box, they paid over 30k in 2001.
Here is the breakdown of what I have had to replace:
The first thing my mechanic told me was, the Dex Cool must go and be replaced with UNIVERSAL, not regular antifreeze. Dex Cool has a very bad reputation among mechanics I learned.
Well, when we flushed the radiator, we discovered the radiator was shot. Replaced with new radiator, new radiator cap (factory one is junk).
I started smelling coolant when I put on the heat, and would get a leak under the front when I turned the engine off.
Had a Pressure Test done. Diagnosis: Upper Intake Seal needs replaced. I paid to have the seal replaced, it's about a $800 job. Still leaks. Replaced water pump, thought it may be seeping with about 100k on the original can't hurt, another $400. Still leaking. Pressure test done again at a different shop. Diagnosis: Lower Intake Seal, had to have both Upper and lower done again, another $1000 job. Still leaking!!!!
Lets see I have replaced the Radiator, Thermostat, Upper Intake Gasket, Lower Intake Gasket, Water Pump, and still a F*!!! Leak!!!
Finally had to have the dash and front driver seal completely taken out, just to replace the heater core a $40 part, but another $800 in most shops. Finally the leak is fixed!!
Let me say I have NEVER owned ANY vehicle that has caused me this much grief at only 100k miles. Now that's just the cooling system. Let's keep going. Engine light on, Diagnosis: Vacuum lines rotted under the hood and multiple sensors failed. Replaced Vacuum lines, less than $50. Multiple sensors $400. Fixed.
Well now the JUNK ABS system they put on these. ABS lights on. Was told the bearings have a sensor on them that fails and to replace. Replaced front wheel bearings and new sensors, $400. ABS and brake lights still on. Took to shop and was told the entire ABS unit is BAD. $800 to replace. Keep in mind this is local shop pricing, the Dealership cost to have these repairs would be much much higher. I have not replaced ABS unit yet, lights still on.....
The fuel lines and the brake lines had to be repaired both were rusted and started leaking. $400.
Rear end started to squeak. Rotors and pads were shot. Replaced everything with lifetime parts. $500. Still squeaked. Found out, calipers on both sides were not releasing completely. Had to replace calipers both sides $400 most shops. Mileage increased to 12 MPG, now that rear end was not dragging.
Heat would not switch to floor, only would come out the defrost and vents. Diagnosis: Actuator door control $400 job BUT when the mechanic went to put the Actuator on he discovered the Actuator was working BUT the internal plastic heater door in the heater box had failed. He was able to reach up the heater vent and set the door back open to floor and now this works, but he still says if i want it fixed right he has to take out the heater box and replace broken flapper. $500.
Driver window motor went out $200 to replace. Power mirror switch failed, no power mirrors $100 for new switch. Drivers seat handle broke off, cheap ass Chevy plastic. No fix for this, but replace the seat.$1000. Now I use a vice grips to move the seat around. Rear hatch switch not working, had to replace the entire unit. $200. Half the lights are out on factory radio.
Running rough, new battery, tune-up new wires etc another $300.
Vehicle would pull to the left. Took to alignment shop, told me both ball joints upper and lower on both sides were bad as well as the center link. Another $1000 alignment included. gee thanks.
At just 100k miles, the cost for repairs has been staggering....
The poor quality, faulty parts, junk electronics, even the very fluid they use to cool this JUNK is corrosive to the seals and coolant system and costs $27 a gallon in the parts store. NOOOOOOO!!
I also own a Jeep Wrangler and thought the repairs on that were bad. You know JUST EMPTY EVERY POCKET is what Jeep stands for and mine, has lived up to that reputation.
I own a Honda Civic and at 200k it's my most reliable vehicle, the only think major was the head gasket, which was a factory flaw that year. After I replaced that, and had the heads machined, still going strong. It's been the best of the three in repairs and drives the best.
I have to say, after all this, I have lost all faith and confidence in Chevy products. I recently went in to buy tires and a guy was complaining about his brand new Camaro, told me it was total junk and he had a long list of repairs already. Dealer was not backing the product, he was livid and said he would never buy another Chevy product again. I believed it. I won't either...
- Robert K., Barberton, OH, US