This data is from the NHTSA — the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints are spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem.
So how do you find out what problems are occurring? For this NHTSA complaint data, the only way is to read through the comments below. Any duplicates or errors? It's not us.
The contact owns a 2007 BMW 328xi. While driving at 40 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the electrical fuse box needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was not included in the NHTSA campaign number: 13V044000 (electrical system). The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 65,000.
Driving at approximately 30mph passing vehicle allerted me of fire and smoke coming from my rear. As I slowed down flames and smoke increased. Smoke filled interior upon my exiting. Rear fire co0ntinued to burn until fire department. Dooused car with water. Police report taken. Car taken to repair shop and declared to expensive to repair.
The contact owns a 2007 BMW 328I. While driving 70 mph, the instrument panel warning indicators illuminated and the windshield wipers started to activate independently. The contact also stated that the ignition had difficulty switching into the on position. The contact also stated that the door locks would also work independently. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 140,000.
I parked on my drive way normally with everything fine. The next day when trying to turn the car on, it wouldn't start and it gave me a steering wheel lock issue.
I was driving on an empty road when the car shut off completely, the cabin lost all power and the car went on black out mode. I began to press the brake but it was rough and unresponsive, I pulled the emergency brake to continue to stop slowly, once on the side of the road, I began to examine the vehicle, opened the battery compartment in the trunk of the vehicle and seemed to be fine, I popped the hood open, examined a little bit more for fluids or signs of over heating and was unsuccessful, called a tow truck, the driver tested the battery and said the battery was not taking the charge, so he towed me home, the next day I took the battery to the place I purchased it from since it was still under warranty, this battery had a 2 year warranty and was used for 8 months. I installed the battery and the power in the cabin and dash was reestablished, a warning light came on the dash shortly after I try to start the car and a clicking noise from where the fuse box is located, on the passenger side began. I pulled the key out, attempted to start the car again and an icon of a steering wheel and locked popped up, all in red. I ceased to attempt to start the car, I researched the following day and it seems like it had to be taken to the BMW dealer, on Tuesday 4/22 the car was towed to the dealer, I was informed the battery was dead once again and that the issue was the steering column mechanism which was locked, they wanted to charge $1200 to perform the labor, apparently they reset the code and the car was turned on, once I realized the car was drivable and that there is no special coding to perform the job, I asked for the car to be released after paying $160. The vehicle has an electrical issue that causes the battery to put out higher voltage than the car needs and therefore causes the battery to malfunction.
- Tampa, FL, USA
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The contact owns a 2007 BMW 328I. The contact stated that the vehicle stalled on several occasions without warning. The vehicle was taken to the dealer and it was determined that the battery connector needed to be replaced. The contact asked about NHTSA campaign number: 13V044000 (electrical system) but the manufacturer stated that the vehicle was not included in the recall. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was unknown.
My wife and I have a 2007 BMW 328I. In 2010, we got in the vehicle and there was a steering wheel lock warning on the dash. We took it to get looked at and they stated it was a "fault code". we had the exact same experience in 2012 and 2014 with the same result, "fault code". we now have this icon warning again. This time we are told that the whole steering column will need to be replaced ($1200). According to many references, this is a common problem and BMW is aware of it. Also, according to several references, there is no warning or prediction when the steering wheel lock will fail in the locked position. If you are first getting into the vehicle and the steering wheel lock has failed in the locked position, it will not allow you to start the engine. The question that I have is whether the steering wheel lock can fail in the locked position while the vehicle is being driven. Apparently, this question has been raised by numerous people. I have asked this question to the dealership as well as several BMW websites. The results are, they don't know or the answers have been inconsistent and often contradictory. Aside from this particular problem being far too frequent to ignore by BMW, this appears to be a very real safety concern. BMW continues to ignore this problem.
The contact owns a 2007 BMW 328xi. The contact stated that after starting the vehicle, the passenger restraint failure light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing and the diagnosis was the result of the seat sensor mat failure. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The contact was offered the part for free, but the contact would have to pay for the repairs. The contact was aware of a recall relating to the failure, but was notified from the manufacturer that the VIN was not included. The vehicle had not been repaired. The contact also stated that the failure light illuminated continuously. The approximate failure mileage was 85,000.
The contact owns a 2007 BMW 328xi. The contact received notification of NHTSA campaign number:13V044000 ( electrical system) however, the remedy was performed but shortly after the contact stated that while driving at 5 mph, the vehicle jerked forward and stalled. The check engine warning light illuminated. The failure recurred twice. The vehicle was able to restart and was driven to the dealer where it was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown. Updated 4/6/15 the consumer stated the vehicle was repaired at a cost of $1400. The consumer stated the vehicle lurched forward and then stalled. The vehicle would not re-start. Updated 06/04/15
The door locks and central locking system are malfunctioning. Key fob will not unlock driver's door and other doors. Key must be used for entry. BMW admits in bulletins that fuse amperage was designed improperly. Taken into dealership for repair, dealership claims that all four door latches need to be replaced at a cost of $1,490. Research indicates this is a systemic issue with bmws. Surprised that a recall has not been ordered given the serious safety issues involved.
The door locks on the front passenger and rear drivers side doors would not unlock and passengers had to climb out of the opposite sides of the vehicle.
Door locks would not open leaving me locked out of the car and stranded. Had to have the car towed 300 miles to get it back home where a BMW repair place was available. Had to replace both front door actuators at a cost of $600 just to get back inside my car. If a baby was trapped in the car it could of died by the time it was to get anyone to help get the doors open. The most dangerous design I've ever heard of. Interior door handles will not work and no way to get out of the car if it happened while I was inside.
Apparently, the electronic key is defective, leading to an engine shutdown. Fortunately, I was able to steer off the highway without power and restart the engine. Prior to the incident, the car would intermittently fail to start. I notified BMW customer relations after the incident. I was told that these keys have a non-replaceable rechargeable battery, that may "wear out", and therefore not hold a charge! they informed me that as my vehicle was out of warranty, they would not provide me with a replacement key unless I purchased a new one ($250), I pointed out that nowhere in the owner's manual is it stated that keys need replacement, nor the hazard of driving with a "worn out" key. The representative ([xxx], emp.#[xxx]) stated "there is nothing BMW can do in this case." Information redacted pursuant to the Freedom Of Information Act (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).
The electrical door lock failed and prevented the driver's door to unlock from the inside causing the driver to be trapped inside the car. There is no manual way to unlock car door from inside.
Upon starting the car there was a rapid sound of the door locks, locking and opening several times and then stopped. The drivers door was locked and could not be opened from inside or outside. Checked all the fuses but none were blown. After online research did replace the #57 fuse with a 20 amp vs 15 as suggested but still not working. If you mess with it long enough it will unlock but the other doors will be locked. If I were to be in an accident and this happened, myself or the other occupants may not be able to exit the vehicle quickly enough to prevent harm to us. I believe this is a safety hazard and BMW should take some action to correct this, an override fix or other safety measure at their expense. This is a safety hazard in my view!
The left passenger door lock has ceased to operate on my 2007 BMW 328I. It does not unlock with either the key fob or the main unlock switch. This is very dangerous if there were any kind of emergency involving this door needing to be opened.
I was driving my BMW 328I 2007 and had passengers in the car. Apparently one of the door lock fuses blew. I am unable to unlock any of the passenger doors with the key fob nor from the inside of the car. I am able to open the driver's side door manually but that is it. In other words, the passengers in my car could not manually open their doors at all. They had to crawl through the driver side to exit the vehicle! thank god I wasn't in an accident, there wasn't a fire. I'm now being told that BMW has to "run a full diagnostic" but there is no way to open any passenger doors of the vehicle for entrance or exit unless I potentially spend thousands of dollars on an electrical system issue. Seriously" does this seem safe to the average person"
The contact owns a 2007 BMW 328 I. the contact stated while driving 30 mph, the vehicle stalled and the service engine warning indicator illuminated. The contact was able to restart the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to two different independent mechanics who were not able to duplicate the problem. The third time the failure occurred, the vehicle was taken to the dealer, who stated the failure was due to a defective eccentric shaft sensor which needed to be replaced. The contact was made aware of a recall under NHTSA campaign id number 13V044000 (electrical system), however, her VIN was not included. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the problem. The approximate failure mileage was 106,745. The VIN was not available.
Everything was fine. I hadn't noticed any changes except the cruise control would shut off by itself. Then I needed a jump and it took right away. The next time I needed a jump it wouldn't take. Took the battery to autozone and had it checked and it was fine. So realized it wasn't the battery. Id try to start the car but nothing happens not even a clicking noise nothing. But the lights still came on windows still rolled down radio even worked it just wouldn't start.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T S
- New Orleans, LA, USA